We
deboard the bus and stand on the outskirts of Mahadev’s land. To reach the
famous Banaras ghats we need an auto.
Waseem the kind autowallah agrees to
take us for 150 rupees while others charge more than 250 rupees. Political Hindutva is very aggressive. We can feel
that he, as part of the minority community, is on the back foot. A biker
bearing a big tilak on his forehead
misbehaves. It’s his mistake but instead of apologizing he unleashes a sharp
reprimand through his gutka-filled
mouth. Almost hisses. At a crossing a carwallah
almost bangs into the auto and carries on with his aggression through his
obscene tongue. We came so near to a collision—his rash driving being the
cause—that I closed my eyes. Waseem doesn’t argue. He just moves on with his
business: to earn bread and butter for his family.
There
seems to a tacit understanding that as UP Muslims they have to play safe. We
brothers try to give an impression that India is still reasonably secure. We
chat with him in a polite, friendly way. We ask him about the famous eating
points in the city. So still on the way there we are sharing a lovely, mouthwatering
delicacy with him at Bengal Chat Bhandar. Further on, we all three have tea at
a place of his liking. He comes out of his shell, talks happily and shares his
personal story. He used to work in Delhi but Corona epidemic forced him to move
to his native place. It’s difficult to provide for his three children. ‘Corona
took away everything… wife, Delhi job!’ he says with sadness. He remarried for
the sake of his children but his second wife won’t love and take care of the
children. To avoid the daily drama he decided to separate. Now his mother takes
care of the children.
I
think the key to unlock the treasure chest of goodness in someone is smile and
kind words. The same applies to another auto driver Suresh. Give them respect
and generally people would go out of their way to reciprocate on the same
frequency. He tries to do his best to show us the beauty of his city. Like an
expert guide he points out the famous landmarks falling on the way. The people
are looking to share their stories with sympathetic souls. Very soon he is
telling us about his family. He praises his wife because she takes care of his
ailing parents. He is in gratitude to Mahadev that his daughter is lucky to get
married in a good family.
On the
ghats we come across a Tamil baba with an imposing danda draped in saffron cloth. He asks
for chai, which means 10 rupees. He
is very happy to get clicked. The frank baba
is very honest about sharing his personal information. He takes drinks liquor two-three
times a week, eats one vegetarian meal in a day, is not addicted to ganja but
happily takes a few draughts of weed when offered by someone. He is very
pleased to see his pictures on my mobile, gives his friend’s number and asks me
to forward them to his friend on WhatsApp. The baba is joyful that his latest pictures have landed in his friend’s
phone far away in Tamil Nadu and points to small gulls following boats in Ma Ganga
and says, ‘I fly like those birds. I feel very light!’
Two babas in black with ash-smeared faces.
You click their picture. Give us chai,
they demand. One baba in orange with
a carefully painted face is sipping tea. ‘Pay for my tea,’ he says while I click
his picture. I don’t have change. The tea seller doesn’t accept digital
payment. The baba gets angry and
throws a cuss word. I hurry away lest he beats me because he seems capable of
doing that. A baba with a long tower
of hair braids is reclining on a platform. He naughtily waves at two white
women. ‘How do you feel looking at them?’ we innocently ask. He gets offended
and flares up, ‘All bitches have the same thing.’ He fumes. We placate him with
gentle words and 10 rupees for chai.
One ash-smeared baba is sitting on a
stone bench right in the middle of the crowded bazaar opposite Daswamedh ghat. I raise my phone to click him. He brandishes
a warning finger. ‘Then why are you sitting in this crowd with all this
make-up?’ I feel like asking but think better of it because they have a right
to beat anyone without any provocation. It’s good that common people have the
patience to take their slaps as blessings.
The ghats are crowded and polluted under the
throes of spiritual business. Ma Ganga is polluted beyond reparation point. The
water is muddy green. I miss Her bright blue and green waters that one sees at
Rishikesh. Touts literally drag you by force into the boats sadly chugging in
the polluted holy river. The evening arti
is elaborate in operations involving chanting of hymns, big prayer lamps and
expensive rituals. A naga sadhu
angrily shoves a few Brahmins roaming in the crowd with plates bearing arti lamps and receiving charity money.
The ash-smeared naga seems angry and
pushes the Brahmins to gather the donations himself. Most of the ash-smeared babas are very intimidating. They take
it as their right to collect money and bathe first in the holy river.
The
burning pyres of Manikarnika ghats
have multiple pyres burning on big mounds of ash. It’s a chilly mid-December
windy night. Standing near the burning pyres gives you warmth and the
realization of death hugs you from very near quarters. The next day is Purnima and thousands of poor women from
the villages are jutted against each other along the ghats amid stinking urine smell to take bath early in the morning
next day on the auspicious full moon occasion. They huddle like a flock of
sheep, taking warmth from each other under an open sky on this chilly night.
Many are singing folklore songs and dancing. That’s how they will spend this
cold night. The power of faith is warming their souls.
The
renovated Mahakal temple complex is mythically grand and lofty in spiritual
stature. Gyanvapi mosque built on the same complex is clearly an Islamic dome
set up on a pre-existing Hindu temple. It’s as clear as anything else in broad
daylight. Why do they even need archeological digging to prove it? The lower
part clearly shows a temple structure and pillars. It doesn’t need expert
digging by the Archaeological Survey of India to prove that a temple was
vandalized to erect a mosque’s dome on top of it.
We
have taken a mediocre hotel near the ghats.
The hotel owner is an old gentleman. He doesn’t like Modi and angrily says, ‘We
have been voting for him but he just tells jumlas,
doesn’t work on his promises and this time was simply lucky to win from here through…’
I remember the honorable prime minister’s claims that he will make Kashi clean
like Kyoto. But Banaras is stinking with pollution. I can hardly see any
improvement apart from the temple corridor.
Banaras
is so congested that going to Sarnath, just a dozen kilometers away, gives a
totally new and refreshing experience. It’s almost opposite to the pleasantly chaotic,
noisy Banaras ghats. The place seems
very symbolic of the historical truth: peaceful Buddhism was churned out of the
chaotic, noisy, hyper-ritualistic storm of Hinduism. One can clearly feel it.
Chaukhandi
and Sarnath stupas bear testimony to
the mythical whisper of silence and peace. Rows of east Asian monks going
chanting mantras around the stupas.
The sprawling lawns around the stupas
still carry the layers of peace and tranquility that Buddha spread here
centuries ago with his first sermon. The museum is full of grand Buddha statues
dating back to many ancient centuries. There was a time when this land had
millions of Buddha statues, temples and monasteries. Was it wiped out of India
by force? Or did it naturally fade out? Or was it assimilated into Hinduism
again? I believe it was a slow, almost natural process involving all these
factors. Also, there are reasons to believe that aggressive Brahmanism helped
in systematically dismantling it by force, cajoling and even spreading rumors.
Naresh
is a small, gentle, patient guy selling Buddha souvenirs. He allows you to
check his items even if you are clearly doing a free eye shopping. He even
plays the instruments to give us information about them including a big conch
which he plays with nice skills. He seems to be soaked in Buddha spirit and is
happy to get whatever lands in his purse at the end of the day. A small
conversation with him is sufficient to make you feel that he is a good human
being.
Ashokan
pillar is a 15.25 meter monolithic pillar of polished chunar sandstone with a tapering cylindrical shaft. It was once
surmounted by an adorned lion capital which serves as our national emblem. The
shaft is lying in the lawn around the stupa,
the national emblem in the museum. The pillar’s broken lower shaft bearing some
fragments in Maurayan Brahmi script warning the monks and nuns against schism
in the sangha.
Chaukhandi
stupa is a four-armed terraced brick structure. It was here that Buddha met his
five disciples. The outer walls of the terraces are ornamented with niches
having Buddha images. A brick tower, bearing an Arabic inscription, erected by
Raja Todar Mal’s son to commemorate Humayun’s visit, stands on the top of the stupa.
Dhamekh
stupa (Dharma Chakra Stupa)
commemorates the place where Buddha gave his first sermon. It’s a solid
brick-made cylindrical tower around 40 meter high. The circular stone drum at
the base topped with a cylindrical mass of brickwork looks sturdy against the
winds of time. Carved stones with geometric designs of swastika, leaf and
floral patterns, birds and human figures create an aesthetic nostalgia for the
ancient past. The East Asian tourists and monks are chanting hymns on the
peaceful lawns and many are doing parikrama
around the stupa. It’s wonderful to share the peace of this place, the place
where the seed of Buddhism was sown from where it grew into a massive tree
spreading the shade of its faith to far flung countries in the east.
Sarnath
is a lovely open small town, its peace palpable as if drawn from the Buddhist
sutras of love, kindness, peace and joy. There is a sad-looking Chinese
Buddhist temple here. It was made in 1939 by an abbot from Beijing. It bears
the traditional Chinese temple feature of entrance gate pagoda. The Boddhisattva hall has double pagoda roof
and a monastery around a central courtyard. The walls are adorned with Chinese
motifs. Hieun Tsang’s journey is pictorially depicted in attractive murals. The
temple’s land was owned by China. Now a lone monk with hennaed goatee looks
suspiciously at the visitors. He has central Asian mongoloid Muslim features.
An interesting character, has shifty eyes and looks anything but a monk. He
tells me that he is from Delhi and is taking care of the temple for the last
decade. ‘A Thai monk is in charge of this place. He planned for the
construction of a grand stupa. But he hasn’t returned after Corona. I myself
almost died of gall bladder stone. Nobody cares,’ he is angry and sullen. I can
clearly feel that there is more to it than he shares. After all, the complex is
built on 12 acres of land. So definitely there are property issues.
Angarika
Dharampala (born 1864, Sri Lanka) found the Buddhist sites in a deplorable
condition. He established Mahabodhi society to rebuild Buddhist holy sites and
restore sacred places linked to Buddha. The Bodhi tree’s branch cutting was
taken to Sri Lanka by Ashoka’s son and daughter and planted at Anurudhpura. In
1931, a branch from the same tree was planted here by Dharampala to commemorate
the place where Buddhism was born. Sarnath deer park, housing a few deer, is mobbed
by some students on a trip. It was here that the first sermon was given. The
first sermon of Sakyamuni Buddha, the
seed, has germinated quite well and the mammoth tree of Buddhism is now
luxuriantly spreading its branches for global peace and harmony. The tree is
the grandson of the Mahabodhi tree at Gaya where Buddha attained enlightenment.
I collect a few dry leaves that have fallen on the ground. I touch them with
love and care—for inspiration to be on the middle path. I feel that I have a
small connection with Buddhism for being born on Buddha Purnima.