Tibetan notes - 14

 

At Shimla, the Tibetan community gave an emotional and heartfelt send-off to the SFF soldiers heading to the China border in another sector after the Pangong feat. They cheered the gallant commandos waving to the crowd by standing and clapping from both sides of the road. Waved Indian and Tibetan flags and shouted, “Bharat Mata Ki Jai!” Hailed Indo-Tibetan friendship. Local Tibetan Sansad Secretary ⇒ Palden Dhondup.

◉ SFF now has Gorkhas along with Tibetans. Secret Tibetan 

◉ guerrilla Squad. Little known Paramilitary Unit. Covert SFF Battalion Special Operations Squad. SFF is under Director General of Security (DGS) and under Cabinet Secretariat. The DGS is now part of India’s external intelligence agency RAW. Has its own rank structure and training infrastructure. SFF units are called Vikas Battalions. Clandestine unit. Mysterious guerrilla Faction. Tibetan Annexation in 1951 by PLA meant India lost the buffer zone. In 1962, India and the CIA agreed to cooperate on secret military programs. Chushi Gangdruk, the Tibetan guerrilla movement which had been fighting the Chinese since 1956, was still active. Its leaders were involved in SFF recruitment.

The initial plan was to train 6,000–7,000 recruits in mountain warfare, sabotage and demolition, and push them into Tibet to fight the Chinese. This prospect lured many Tibetans into SFF. Snow Lion Insignia of the SFF. CIA provided light weapons like M-1 and M-2 submachine guns. Inspired by US Army Special Forces for operations deep behind enemy lines. [Green Berets’ inclination for special warfare. Earlier, the ranks were non-military. Tibetan commanders were called “Political Leader”. 

◉ Ironically, the first bullets were fired against Pakistan not China. The SFF trained Bengali fighters. The US was with Pakistan, so it would not give weapons to the SFF. The US arms were replaced with Bulgarian AK-47s. In late October 1971, SFF deployed their guerillas in the rugged, marshy terrain of Chittagong Hill Tracts. Three battalions (1,000 men) were commanded by a Tibetan Political Leader and an Indian Colonel ⇒ Operation Eagle. By the time India formally declared war against Pakistan on December 3, 1971, the SFF had caused sufficient damage to Pakistan’s military stronghold in Chittagong [important naval port base for Pakistan reinforcements.]. ⇒ Their exploits earned them the title of “Phantoms of Chittagong”. They lost 56 men, and 196 were injured. It was an unofficial mission. The Indian officers were given gallantry medals. The Tibetans got only cash awards. Almost paid foreign mercenaries. PM Indira credited the SFF in private correspondence. A memorial is built

at Chakrata to the victims of 1971 and other operations. Also used in combating communal riots in the mid-1970s. Recently Nepali Gorkha and hill tribesmen have joined ranks. Rumored to be 10,000 strong. They have been instrumental in reconnaissance missions for the Indian army.

◉ A kind of emotional release. A veteran, “It’s our only chance to fight the Chinese.”

◉ Norgyeling Tibetan Refugee settlement in Maharashtra. Tenzin Thandoe.

◉ Tibetan refugee community is very excited. India’s stealth capture of border territory.

◉ India has been reluctant to use SFF against China so far. It is feared that with Tibetans being so emotional (passionate) about China, they might not be able to keep their emotions under control during a clash.

◉ Tibetan population in India has fallen from 150,000 (2011) to 85,000 (2018) ⇒ many emigrating to Western countries or taking Indian passports.

◉ After the clash that got highlighted, there is excitement among young boys to join SFF and fight China.

◉ Indian army says SFF soldier died accidentally after stepping onto a vintage 1962 minefield.

◉ Shimla ⇒ waving and offering traditional Khatas (white scarves) to a departing convoy.

◉ Trained to work in the shadows.

◉ Most of resistance fighters were from the Kham region in eastern Tibet. Uprising started in 1956.

◉ Next of Kin (NoK) for SFF soldiers is the Dalai Lama.

◉ The Noodle Maker of Kalimpong by Gyalo Thondup.

◉ In Kalimpong, many resistance fighters were followers of Gompo Tashi, a trader. Their organisation was called CHUSHI-GANGDRUK, Four rivers and six ranges. The Dalai Lama’s younger brother facilitated a group of six fighters to receive Morse Code and radio communication technology by the CIA. Unknown to India, they were sent to Bangladesh and flown to the island of Saipan in the Pacific for four months of training in guerrilla warfare and communication. They were airdropped back in Tibet in July 1957. ⇒ began to send intelligence to the US. ⇒ By 1958, Chushi Gangdruk had 23 units and drove the Chinese out from South Tibet. There were 25,000 poorly equipped fighters. CIA failed at a critical juncture ⇒ supplied only 700 outdated guns ⇒ 6,000 fighters remained in India ⇒ IB Chief B.N. Mullik put forward the idea of SFF. ⇒ Major General Sujan Singh drove in a taxi from Delhi to an old Gurkha training centre that was lying vacant at Chakrata at a height of 7,000 feet. There were barracks and training areas like rock climbing. It was raised on Nov 14, 1962, Nehru’s birthday ⇒ A week later ceasefire ⇒ no action.

⇒ There were anger and shame for what happened to the Dalai Lama, their God. ⇒ Incredible athleticism and blessed with excellent genetics. ⇒ The founder’s son, Gurdip Singh Uban (IG) was 22 and a Second Lieutenant at that time. They renamed it SFF in 1967. Frontier standing for NWFP from where their family came. He served as IG of SFF and led them in Kargil Operations. All was kept secret. This time at the LAC, India has opened about them to play the Tibet card and a message for the people in Tibet. The third generation is serving the SFF now. Their battle song: “The Chinese snatched Tibet from us, and kicked us out of our homes; Even then, India kept us like their own... Our young martyrs have no sadness whatsoever; Whether it’s Kargil or Bangladesh; We will not lose our strength; Whenever opportunities arise we will play with our lives.”

◉ A former SFF commando whose son is lying injured in the Pangong clash says that this time India had the advantage and should get Tibet liberated. [Preemptive operation against China]

◉ Took part in Siachen operations also.

◉ India had its reasons in not being open about the Tibetan battalions in its elite SFF force. Being secretive about it was practical enough. So they operated under the shadows, doing what would normally be really difficult. About 60 of them died and 200 injured in the war of Bangladesh liberation in 1971. In 1999, during the Kargil operations against Pakistan they proved their bravado in frozen heights. Further, they have been part of many other counter-insurgency operations. Beyond laurels and gallantry awards they have fought only for the God King, H/H the Dalai Lama, who is the official next of kin of every SFF fighter. This time India has decided to come out in the open about their role in a war-like situation. The exiled Tibetans get a brief and long overdue moment of pride for contributing to the cause of the nation that has hosted them. However, beyond all Indo-China complexities and issues, these third-generation SFF soldiers still, primarily, fight for their God King and the snow lion flag. The Government of India has agreed to come out at long last for it sends a fresh wave of excitement among the exiled Tibetans and those suffering under the brutal hand of the Han Chinese in Tibet.

◉ [Report of 2017]: Whether Tibetans in exile applying for Indian passports are “endangering the freedom struggle” has triggered a debate within the Tibetan community. According to the Indian Ministry of External Affairs, a Tibetan refugee applying for an Indian passport has to give up his/her refugee status and leave the Tibetan settlement ⇒ Tibetans view it as a blow to their freedom struggle. Tibetan Administration (Global HQ of Tibetans living in 40 countries) ⇒ issued notice to Tibetan settlements against providing any supportive documents to anyone applying for Indian passport. Their department of home has cautioned them against surrendering their Tibetan identities. [After a court case, Lobsang Wangyal (47) became the first Tibetan to get Indian passport in March 2017]. ⇒ many others started applying ⇒ Regional Passport Office at Shimla. In four months, 200 applied. About 40 of them surrendered their registration certificates (RCs) with police to avail Indian passports in Kangra alone. Tibetans born in India are recognised as foreigners and require a permit renewed each year (or sometimes 5 years). Tenzin Tsundue ⇒ Activist, writer. They face travel hassles ⇒ a yellow book (Identity Certificate) works as a passport. Lengthy process to get it and many countries don’t recognise the yellow book. – Sonam Norbu Dagpo ⇒ Secretary international relations at Tibetan H/Q. Tibetans sometimes have to wait for a few years to get the yellow book. 150,000 Tibetans across the globe (12,000 in India). Karma Rinchen – Secretary in security department. – Till 2008, more than 3000 Tibetans entered India from Tibet. Now only 35/year. – Around 40,000 are eligible Indian voters in HP following a 2013 court order which granted Indian citizenship to Tibetan refugees born in India after 26 Jan 1950 and before July 1, 1987. ⇒ Most of them haven’t enrolled to have voting rights.

◉ [September 6, 2020:] The Indian forces now occupy 30 dominating heights and many other similar features in the southern Pangong Tso area. These were partly occupied or unoccupied so far. It includes Rezang La and Reqin La, which dominate the Spanggur Gap covering Patrol Points 27 to 31. Other heights include: Black Top, Hanan, Helmet, Gurung Hill, Gorkha Hill and Magar Hill. This has been done to pre-empt PLA transgressions to unilaterally change the LAC. It will now strengthen the Indian position during territorial trade-offs at the negotiating table. There are 1,600 km² of disputed area in Eastern Ladakh [350 km² in southern Pangong, 250 km² in northern Pangong and 1,000 km² in Depsang plains.]. Now Indians can monitor the PLA activity in the north Pangong. Soldiers face each other within small-arms firing range. The Army has also climbed the heights facing Finger 4. China dominates 8 km area between Finger 4 and Finger 8. Indian troops are fully equipped with mortars, rocket launchers, tanks, artillery guns and surveillance equipment. Brigadier-level talks ⇒ tactical rules of engagement at the ground level to avoid bloody face-offs.

◉ The SFF soldier was cremated with full public honour. The Indian Army, Tibetans and BJP’s Ram Madhav paid their last respects, the latter briefly tweeted with funeral pictures and deleted them later. SFF soldiers owe their loyalty and allegiance to H.H. the Dalai Lama, Tibetan flag and the Indian tricolour. Coffin wrapped in Indian and Tibetan flags. Slogans: “Bharat Mata Ki Jai!” Ceremonial guns fired, salutes offered. The Indian national anthem was played along with the Tibetan national anthem of the government in exile (written in 1950). “We salute the Indian Army”. BJP’s National General Secretary was present. The Chinese spokesperson says they are curious about this connection between the Indian Army and Tibetans. Firebrand BJP MP Jamyang Tsering Namgyal. The funeral cortege was led by a convoy of cars and motorcycles. People waved Indo-Tibetan flags. Coffin carried in an army truck with white scarves tied around. The flags offered to the widow at the funeral. First instance of SFF soldier given a public funeral with full military honour. Volley of shots by ceremonial guards. “Vikas Regiment Zindabad” “Tibet desh Ki Jai!” “Glory be to our second homeland!”

◉ Ladakh is now a separate UT created in August 2019.

◉ As India had been trying to strengthen its relationship with China through informal summits, the Tibetans felt they were sidelined, substantiated by GoI’s actions like asking officials and BJP leaders not to attend an event marking the Dalai Lama’s 60 years in exile.

◉ Ram Madhav: “Peace along India-Tibet border” not “India-China border”.

◉ The strong message should reach Tibetans in Tibet.

◉ “He lived for the love of Tibet and died for the love of India!”

◉ Chanted Tibetan cries of nationalism.

◉ Dawa Dolma – Journalist in Leh.

◉ Given a guard of honor; Army and civil administration officials laid wreaths.

◉ SFF deployed in Chushul in early June.

◉ Occupying half of Black Top, halfway there, says the injured SFF soldier’s father.

◉ Global Times says India is using Tibetan soldiers like cannon fodder. The PLA accuses Indian soldiers of crossing the LAC and firing “warning shots”.

◉ A jittery China is again issuing threats of dire consequences.

◉ Biju Patnaik was instrumental in getting the CIA to set up a secret communication base at Charkatia in Odisha. Through this facility, the CIA, Indian intelligence personnel and the Tibetan rebel leaders stayed in touch. ⇒ Spying and covert operations by the SFF in the Himalayas led by Captain Mohan Singh Kohli (1964) ⇒ Spying apparatus on Nanda Devi.

◉ 1971 operations: Bulgarian assault rifles and US-manufactured carbines to hide their links to India ⇒ fought under the direct command of RAW’s legendary spymaster Rameshwar Kao ⇒ engaged in low-grade border skirmishes ⇒ destroyed several key bridges ⇒ Pakistan’s 97 Independent Brigade and crack 2 Commando Battalion remained stranded in Chittagong Hill Tracts ⇒ SFF thought they were rehearsing for Lhasa.

◉ The use of SFF is to upset China; SFF soldiers fight for Dalai Lama who is vilified by Beijing; SFF acquiring tactical heights in Chushul sector, where the Buddhist Tibetans outflanked the Chinese with perfect ease; Original SFF cadres were recruited from the famous Khampa warrior refugees from the treacherous terrain of the Kham region. They served as Dalai Lama’s bodyguards. The Chinese leadership is nervous and jittery about anything related to China ⇒ Success of SFF might encourage Tibetan resistance in the oppressed homeland.

◉ A former RAW China [unclear] specialist now running a Centre for China Analysis.

◉ European Foundation for South Asian Studies.

◉ Now India seems ready to break its historical reticence due to repeated PLA violations. India has the resources to encourage a popular movement against the Chinese occupation of Tibet; global chorus against the legitimacy of Chinese rule over Tibet.

◉ Chakrata – 87 km from Dehradun.

◉ SFF has got decent salaries and service benefits in 2016 after a long legal battle.

◉ It was basically created for deployment against the PLA and to garner intelligence from inside China (from their contacts and associates) and cross-border reconnaissance and raids. US hated communism and President Kennedy encouraged the training of the SFF. But then the US under Nixon eased up to China (the US president hated Indians on racial grounds) and Sinicisation of Tibet began. The Han Chinese subjugated the plateau at cultural, ethnic and social levels. The CIA withdrew its support for the SFF which it had been providing in the areas of light equipment, mountain craft & guerrilla warfare, infiltration, rock climbing, irregular warfare and sabotage.

◉ In 1964, the SFF began its airborne training at Agra, which was later shifted to a “specialised” facility at Saraswa near Saharanpur.

◉ [1965]: In 1964, China conducted a nuclear test. The CIA and IB collaborated over an expedition of SFF soldiers to 24,000-foot-high Nanda Devi peak [A classified electronic intelligence mission] to install a nuclear-powered sensing device to monitor future Chinese nuclear activity. Monitoring device weighed 60 kg, (a 10-foot-high antenna, a generator and its fuel comprising seven plutonium capsules in a special container [Half the size of the atomic bomb dropped over Hiroshima]. They were just about to reach the summit when a blizzard hit the expedition. Expedition leader Captain Manmohan Singh Kohli of Indian Navy was forced to hide the equipment in an unmarked cave and return to save his soldiers’ lives. In May 1966, he began another expedition to retrieve the equipment. Nothing was found. Believed that it lies buried under the snow. Nanda Devi area has been closed for decades due to environmental factors. In 1967, Kohli and Co. installed an analogous device on a nearby peak of Nanda Kot (22,500 feet)! Blizzard and snowstorm left it non-functional and it had to be retrieved.

◉ Later it became primarily a RAW and IB “hit-squad”.

◉ 1975: Forbidden from being deployed within 10 km of the LAC, unless under special instructions ⇒ Because there were reports that SFF was conducting “unsanctioned” [unclear] guerrilla operations and border raids.

◉ Journalist spying case ⇒ DP registered a case under the Official Secrets Act against an Indian journalist, a Chinese woman and a Nepalese national for spying. Passing classified information to China. Special Cell of police. Passing sensitive information to Chinese intelligence. Payment made through shell companies. Mobile phones, laptops and sensitive material recovered; Confidential defence documents. Produced before a city court and sent to police custody for a week. Filed a bail application.

◉ Dear PM, next time you go for a bear hug, please remember the bear has claws also. Winnie the Pooh is surely cute and cuddly. But then in geostrategy, hugs are merely indirect ways of clawing (like Shivaji?). Beyond its fluffy cuteness and disarming smile, Winnie the Pooh is a bear after all and has claws. So inviting him for a hug (bear) is getting into self-inflicted traps, because he cannot help his claws from itching to scrape deep into the skin. The genetics of communist ideology are too overpowering in the billions of neural pathways in his brain. He has to have an enemy to survive otherwise a bear won’t be a bear after all. A brotherly bear is asking for too much. 

◉ Was in touch with a Chinese intelligence official since 2016. Was paid Rs. 40 lakh through various hawala channels and shell company transactions. Chinese intelligence official identified as Michael. He sent classified information related to Indian army deployment at the China-Bhutan-India tri-junction, including Doklam. A few weeks before the 2017 Doklam standoff, he passed information about Indian military positions, procurement and strategies on the border, military cooperation between India and Myanmar. He had a Press Information Bureau (PIB) card (issued in the 1980s and valid till Dec. 31, 2020) which he used to visit various government offices including the defence and external affairs ministries ⇒ in the guise of gathering information for his columns. His columns appeared in Mail Today, an India Today group newspaper. His contacts in the ministries. Caught on the basis of communication intercepts by the agencies. Seized his laptop, mobile, passport, bank statement, income-tax files, insurance documents. The other two people arrested were the directors of the shell companies. Between 2010 and 2014 he wrote articles for the Chinese mouthpiece Global Times ⇒ ⇒ A Chinese intelligence officer contacted him through LinkedIn and sponsored his trip to the city of Kunming. Further meetings in Laos and Maldives. Information was passed in “points format” through emails, Telegram and WhatsApp. Visited Kunming via Kathmandu again and met another spy who also acted as the GM of a Chinese media company. Offered $500 for each article on the Dalai Lama. The Chinese couple who operated the shell company made their Nepalese driver the company director. The other Chinese first came on a student visa and is now on a business visa. His wife is an Associate Professor of Physics at DU. His last tweet is vitriolic against China. [A note: Punching the wooden prayer stamps on the diseased part. This is an important part of traditional Tibetan healing practices]. 

A summer at Mcleodganj - 12

 HIS HOLINESS THE DALAI LAMA has the innocent ways of a child and wisdom of a centurion. He met the tourists at the Dalai Lama temple. People of various nationalities grouped separately sitting in the yard. He sat on a wooden chair. The spiritual king of one humanity. He visited the different groups. Shook hands, cracked jokes, smiled, laughed. With children, he stooped down, touched them in forehead to forehead, saluting the innocents in little brains. Ruffled the great Romanesque nose of a man and laughed. An Indian with a long beard found his beard being pulled so forcefully. A smile never leaves this wise face. There is always an inclination for it to change into laughter. When we laugh and smile, we are at our best. So there he is the small King of his boundaryless Kingdom, spreading the message of one humanity, love, peace, universal brotherhood. A tragic journey, starting with pain. But he has decided to go for universal gain. Long live the Dalai Lama! 

[TUSHI]: She landed at Delhi on March 7 and inquired whether I could meet her. Went to meet her on March 9. From her hotel at Saket, she came by metro. Waited at Dr. Ambedkar Memorial near Vidhan Sabha metro station. Went to Majnu Ka Tila and had tea at a Tibetan tea house. Enjoyed a one-sided conversation over butter tea and Tibetan bread (Bale) because she is already into maun vrata to conserve her energy for Himalayan meditation. I don’t know much of sign language. So I prattled endlessly to make it sufficient for two people. She wrote messages on her Tablet, almost as questions. So I think it was more of interviews. Complimented me on my eyes. Showed her watercolour paintings on her gallery. Said that she will be preparing a sketch of me also. The next day she left for Leh to meditate for 3 months at a gompa. She will eat frugally, keep mum and meditate. Best of luck to her!

◉ The 13th Dalai Lama was a Reformer. He ordered three automobiles for himself. These were taken into pieces at the border, and the parts carried over yak backs to Lhasa; then an Indian-trained mechanic reassembled them. (2 Austins and a Dodge).

◉ Apart from the God King’s immediate family, only select nobility and high-ranking Lamas had a right to talk to him. People simply stood with bowed head when H.H. was out on ceremonies.

◉ The Regent: Tagtra Gyeltsap Rimpoche, a severe looking man of 73.

◉ Tibetan national anthem: A funny imitation of the British national anthem “God Save the Queen”. The bandmaster was trained in the Indian army. He heard it on all important ceremonies, so took it to be especially important. He imported it and set it to his brass band with Tibetan hands.

◉ Pilgrims from the remotest parts of Tibet walked to Lhasa to witness these annual religious events.

◉ The more lives of insects, birds and animals one saves, the better karma gives a higher birth after death.

◉ Criminals shown the light of day on Buddha’s death- and birthday → to seek alms and forgiveness.

◉ About 1980, monks of Tenggling tried to come to terms with the Chinese → punishment → monastery demolished and their names chucked out.

◉ In summers when springs dried up → people sought water from River Kyi-chu, flowing near Lhasa.

◉ Oracle of Gadong, the rainmaker → the rainmaker monk goes into fits of trance and his body twists around.

◉ Belief is that the protecting deity comes into the medium’s body and hears and grants the prayers.

◉ Domdens → Dissected the corpses.

◉ Two schools of medicines: one on the Chagpori, Iron Mountain; The other below in the town.

◉ Medicine students went on herb-collecting expeditions among the mountains → returned with yaks laden with herbs → taken to Tra Yerpa, a holy temple to consecrate the herbs.

◉ Healing: faith-healing → Lamas smeared holy spittle on the patients; Tsampa and holy man’s urine mixed to make a gruel → offered to the patients.

◉ SFF, FORCE 24, VIKAS or an anonymous specialist Mountain Troops: Night of August 29–30 (2020) → Chinese troops try to capture strategic heights in the southern Pangong Lake Sector. Military and Diplomatic talks continue but that is simply a mask for them to bide their time and grab more territory. The Indian side preempted their designs by holding a series of locations near Black Top, Rezang La and Reqin Pass. It allows India to dominate the area and keep an eye over the Chinese. A Tibetan soldier lost his life in a landmine blast as the Specialist Mountain troops played a key role in retaining hold over these strategic heights. The fight for an independent Tibet remains a dream, but its realistic and well-compromised practical version is to help India in its war against China. The acknowledgement of their contribution will be indirect. They will just remain Specialist Mountain troops. More than 200 Chinese troops were involved in trying to take the ridges. Volatile Finger Area on the Lake’s northern bank. [Tenzin Nyima - 53 (killed)] 

◉ Little known group of elite, high-altitude warriors.

◉ His family was handed over the coffin bearing Indian and Tibetan flags. An Indian official cautioned them against spreading information about the martyrdom. No official word from the Indian government. Generally, the martyrdom of an Indian soldier is well recognised by the grateful nation. SFF soldiers are not lucky enough to receive that. [They had fought even in 1999 Kargil war]. But a soldier’s glory is missed by them. A lawmaker from Tibetan Govt. Exile requests GoI to acknowledge their contribution for the Indian cause. Anonymity is the price they have to pay for paying for their services in return for India granting them refuge. The PM of the Tibetan government in exile: “His govt. does not comment on the SFF”. Photographs of the coffin and Tibetan Mourning rituals circulate on WhatsApp groups of Tibetan refugees at Leh [Refugee colony in Choglamsar Village of India’s Ladakhi region. [It’s not even clear whether he died in a clash or just landmine blast]. It served the Indian purpose to hide it completely or at most, a landmine blast instead of a direct fight.

China would go even a step further in allaying the issue. They won’t acknowledge that they are Tibetan fighting for India, but it highlights the Tibetan issue. [It was in fact a tiny battle between a company of SFF and 200 Chinese soldiers and the SFF beat them, losing one soldier and one other commando getting seriously injured.] [SONAM LING Settlement in Ladakh]. Director of settlement — Tsetan Wangchuk. Nyima Tenzin — Company Commander. Company in SFF’s 7th battalion. Action — Taking the eastern side of the Pangong Lake. 7th Battalion, Establishment 22 or Vikas battalion. Survived by his wife and three sons. Both India and China avoided giving details of the confrontation. CHINA: “As to the relationship between the exiled Tibetans and the Indian army, I am also curious.”

◉ Highland warriors are familiar with the terrain along Ladakh-Tibet border region.

◉ China has claimed thousands of Tibetan youths in TAR joined PLA during the current military standoff with India.

◉ Former Army Chief Ved Prakash Malik has tweeted about the bravery of Vikas Battalions during the Kargil War.

◉ Establishment 22 is under the administrative control of the Indian intelligence establishment. During covert operations, it’s placed under the army’s command.

◉ Tenzin Lodhen — 24-year-old SFF soldier injured in the operation

◉ Mortal remains wrapped in tricolour and Tibetan snow-lion flag (banned by China but icon of exiled Tibetans’ struggle).

◉ Now the SFF falls under the purview of the Cabinet Secretariat, where it is headed by an officer of the Cabinet Secretariat (who is an army officer of the rank of Major General).

◉ Function under the operational control of army during operations.

◉ Women soldiers, too, form a part of SFF units and perform specialised tasks.

◉ 1971, operation Blue Star, Kargil War, counter-insurgency operations ⇒ details are classified.

◉ Operation Eagle in Chittagong Hill Tracts to neutralise Pakistan Army positions and help the Indian Army move ahead. Airlifted into operational areas ⇒ infiltrated behind enemy lines ⇒ destroyed lines of communications.

⇒ Prevented the escape of Pakistani Army personnel from Bangladesh to Burma. [Around 3000 of them took part in the operations.]

◉ Indo-China border is a twisted series of loops defined by each other’s line of perception. The area between these lines turns into a kind of no-man’s land, a buffer zone. The Indian patrols going towards the Chinese side to the limits of their perception line. The Chinese do the same towards the Indian side. The zone stretches for a few kilometres. For example, it’s 8 km between Finger 4 and Finger 8 in the northern Pangong Lake area. At many points the Chinese have intruded into the patrol area and set up permanent military facilities. Fearing the same in southern Pangong Lake area, the Indian army occupied strategic heights running 4.5 km into the mutual patrol areas on the night of August 29-30. There were intelligence reports that the Chinese would occupy these strategic heights. The SFF warriors beat them to the posts and held them. The Chinese troops made a hasty retreat. It gives the Tibetan community in India a reason to cheer in being part of the struggle against China.

Tibetan notes - 13

 LHASA during the 1940s [CHAGPORI HILL — on which stood the famous school of medicine. Drepung monastery — housing 10000 monks. Nechung monastery — home of the greatest mystery of Tibet, here oracles take place to guide

the govt. Outside the city, a stone wall flanked the road and behind it lay the God-King’s summer palace; further were the pastures and willows where the Dalai Lama’s horses grazed. — British Legation situated just outside the town, surrounded by willow trees. — A gate crowned with three chortens, spanning the gap between two hills, formed city entrance. — Ku-ngo (Highness); Mr. Thangme — Nyenchen thanglha range — Respect for guest was shown by the value and beauty of tea service. — Nobleman with a golden amulet in pigtail. — Newspapers from India reached Lhasa a fortnight after publication. — Army chief: General Kunsangtse — Presenting white silk scarves on being granted an audience (mark of respect). — Amdo in Chinghai (Dalai Lama’s birthplace) — In Tibet the Dalai Lama was addressed as Gyalpo Rimpoche (Precious King); His own family addressed Him as “Kundun”, meaning “Presence”. — Currency: a hundred-sang note — Tibet and Tibetans were never in a hurry — Provision stores had Scotch whisky, Australian butter and American corned beef. What we hadn’t the greed and restlessness. — Common people wore Nambu, cloth made of pure home-woven wool, either white (poor people) or dyed mauve with a mixture of indigo and rhubarb. — Office of British Legation — Wireless operator. Radio telephone with India. — Post — Carried by runners working in relays of four miles each; roads have rest huts wherein the relays wait to take up the post from the previous runner; they carry a spear with bells on it. — Lingkhor — Five-mile pilgrims’ road going around Lhasa. — Beards in Tibet a rarity. — Scriptural prophesy — a great power from the north would overrun Tibet, destroy religion and rule the world. — Lhasa had just one basketball court. Earlier there was football stadium. It hailed during a match and the game stopped on the grounds of God’s displeasure.

— Small stone towers → incense burning — Weather-maker Lamas who assuaged nature. — Game of Mah-jong (जुआ): It was so rampant and population so addicted to it that it was banned. Mah-jong sets confiscated. — Chargé d’affaires of the British Legation at Lhasa       afternoon. — Sandstorms in summers in early. — Tibetans → Childish humour and prone to laugh.

— Barkhor: Business centre in Lhasa. — No house had more than two storeys. — Butter lamps & petroleum pressure lamps. — Oboes, tubas and kettle drums. — Magic medicine made from butter figurines carried in the New Year procession. — Ceremonial flagposts made of tree trunks. People tied ropes around their waist and dragged along ground → primitive — Stone Obelisk dating to 763 A.D. → Tibetan army marched to the Chinese capital and dictated a peace treaty and exacted an annual tribute of 50,000 bales of silk. — The huge flagstaff (70 ft. high) broke. The flag of printed prayers fell upon new year spectators crushed → evil omen → prophesied a black future for the country → natural calamities to war with China.

— Population Tibet: 3.5 million. — The only iron bridge in Tibet was built in India and carried piece by piece by yaks and coolies to set it up. — A Tibetan monthly journal published at Kalimpong in India and carried over yaks; a few hundred subscribers; Tibetologues — Presenting white scarves. — Felt mat; Yak-hair tent. — Although belonging to the same race, Tibetans stand out from the Chinese. Unlike the Chinese they are not prominently slit-eyed. They are more relaxed robust with jovial faces. — Chinese settlers in Lhasa were merchants and enjoyed opium-smoking, on which there was no restriction as such. — During the new year celebrations, the monks took charge of administration and imposed puritanical laws very strictly. — Tibetan national obsession: snuff-taking. Individuals concoct their own snuff mixtures. They greeted each other by offering each other a pinch of snuff (exchange from each others box). Snuff box made of yak-horn and jade. — Stout Nepalese in Lhasa. Under an old treaty, they were exempted from taxation; prosperous merchants in Barkhor. — Fishing was prohibited in Lhasa. The Gurkhas would break the law; get reprimanded; the punishing officials themselves gobbling down a plate of fish clandestinely. Fishing was permitted legally only in the desert region across which the Tsangpo river flowed. No agriculture, no pasture → fishing allowed → but the inhabitants were looked down upon as inferior. — Muslim immigrants in Lhasa (from India). Had a mosque. Freedom of religion; they could marry Tibetan women, but the wives were forbidden from converting to Islam. — There were Ladakhis, Bhutanese, Mongolians, Sikkimese, Kazakhs. — Hui-Huis — Chinese Muslims from the province of Kuku-Nor. They operated slaughterhouses in a special quarter outside the city. — During religious ceremonies, the sight of the God King was sufficient to make the populace forget all hassles of life.

— Nobility was under the control of monks. (MONKS) 

— Personal servants and immediate entourage of the Dalai Lama comprised monks of the TSEDRUNGS monastic order. Chamberlains, tutors, personal guards came from this order. They were stationed in the eastern wing of the Potala palace. Their teachers drew lineage from the reputed cloister of MÖNDROLING, specialising in Tibetan calligraphy and grammar. The strength of the Tsedrung order was 175 maximum. — These monastic officials controlled a major portion of the administrative system (dual control) and counterpoised the power of the nobility. — A normal air of merriment. — Dalai Lama’s summer palace at Norbulingka. — In summer, peach trees in full blossom. — During the change of seasons, on the basis of omen interpretations, an official date was fixed when the monks and nobility changed the dress for the coming season. — Marvellous procession of the Dalai Lama to his summer palace. (2 miles between Potala and Norbulingka palaces.) — The Potala Palace’s imposing exterior, but its austere, gloomy interiors.

A summer at Mcleodganj - 11

 Maitri is surprised at Indians’ reserve in expressing love and affection. They appear very stern and guarded. They appear almost scared of the human touch. Any type of intimacy is instantly interpreted as something to do with sexuality. Now, he comes with a soft, sensitive heart, ready to strike a chord with a fellow human being, beyond the hard cast of gender, class, culture and what not. He is an expert in massage therapy, so he has a loving, healing touch. His looks, words all bear the same print of love. Scores of Muslim vendors have fallen in love with him. Now, he is a strong tattooed, funky monk who is easily misread as a beholder of occult sexual powers. There have been many seekings of his sexual blessings. He tries his level best to help them feel normal, not ashamed of their feelings, and tries to channelise that strong desire into something full of loving kindness. But however hard he may try, he cannot remove their jealousy whenever they see him with a new person. But he has to offer his love to all those around him.

MAITRI: Wellness expert at Asia Spa INDIA — Wellfest 2018 (March). He is known as Tino Lerma in the spa industry. Ordained monastic name — Maitri Avalokita. Speaking on spirituality and mental health. Licensed skin care therapist and teacher (LE, LET), licensed manual (massage) therapist and teacher (LMT, LMTI). Taught in 106 countries. Spiritual counselling. A Christian pastor and Buddhist monk. Interfaith talks through denominational and non-denominational spirituality. Humanistic monk and human service worker at Sarvastivada school of realism. Modern Humanism (original Buddhism) or Buddhist Hinduism? The esoteric, impressive, institutionalised Buddhism with its fiery deities, Bodhisattvas, yogis and yoginis, mandalas, tantric rituals, malas, drums, cymbals, bells. These were but simple, attractive elements to generate the path for a particular state of mind. These Celestial Buddhas and Bodhisattvas were metaphysical creations by the Buddhist sects. These were attractive offerings to the laymen who could not grasp the techniques of mindfulness. With the modern mind sufficiently aware of many things, all these supernatural elements are not necessary. Fire pujas have been adopted from Zoroastrianism. Many Bodhisattvas are adaptations from Hindu myth. Many fiery deities come from indigenous beliefs before Buddhism in Tibet and other countries. One can see the traces of Bonism, Hinduism, Taoism, Animism in the form of myths, spells, incantations, magic, superstition. Monastics in the past were taught science and medicine. Buddhism is basically the science of mind, the psychology of the clear, cognitive mind. Historical Buddha was a human being, an activist, teacher. He has been changed into a celestial being. Buddhism has to adapt to modern times. It needs to go to where suffering is, where there is a potential to groom minds, where there are sickened minds and hearts Buddha was a healer, herbalist, caretaker, psychologist. Simply chanting mantras won’t help. You have to be an activist monk who with nobility and humility, helps in calming minds and cultivating generous hearts. He left India after a year-long, full-time life as a monk. Just before he left he suffered a chronic bout of diarrhoea and was even scared for his life. I had put up a post about Osho’s well-known condemnation of homosexuality. It was that sex is the first step on the path of ultimate liberation. As a homosexual, the journey becomes still longer as you start still lower than the minus one, normal sexuality. My Buddhist friend lost his cool. Condemned Osho as a sexual tyrant and mutant. I reminded him of his violence and ideological terrorism. But he blocked me on FB. Now I can understand a bit why it hit him so hard. I can feel and draw some interpretations, his effeminate touch. Also he was smitten with the rugged charm of handsome Muslim boys and Sikhs and never fell short of expressing his feelings about their charm.

A summer at Mcleodganj - 10

 This is the time of Himalayan cedars’ fruition. Well, this sternly majestic tree has equally hardy fruit. These are virtually green grenades. And since mankind is at war with the rest of nature, monkeys have made it a point to throw these missiles from the side of the animal kingdom. As the first rays of the day peek over the eastern horizon, I wake up to rattling noise. A nightlong rest is too much for the playful, mischievous simians. So the moment you have the call of the day, they jump down from their night-rest branches to make a noisy mark. There is a rattling sound on the iron roofs. Intermittent fire. They really love the rattling, banging sound as the hard, scaly green grenades fall from the towering heights of the cedars. It’s a real-life bombardment, man! I literally feel like jumping out of the bed. We are getting a bit of what we are giving to nature! So the monkeys throw projectiles. They have the hands, and more importantly they have the brains to calibrate scores of mischievous acts and antics. 

The hilly dogs are well fed. They lazily loiter around, inhaling their portion of vigorous peace and harmony prevailing around. There is absolutely no doubt that Tibetans love dogs. It has left an imprint on their social behaviour. In the harshest of climates on the roof of the world, canine companionship certainly helped them in waging a snarly war of sustenance. That familial tie with the canines “is” yet to be forgotten completely. So here we are with lots and lots of pet dogs. These are well fed and lazily snooze in a restful pause. Tibetans are well-built, broad-shouldered guys. This I think can be attributed to their continually undertaking the ritual prostrations. It’s a very nice exercise. A sort of Suryanamaskar. You stand up, do a sequence of three namaskars, over your head, in front of your face and chest — and then bend down on your knees, crawling forward, lying on your belly, stretching your hands along the length. When done repeatedly, it of course is a very handy exercise.

A summer at Mcleodganj - 9

 AKASH: He is a small drooping man in his mid-thirties. He keeps his head low. Inherently he is cast in a mould of strange innocence and simplicity. His striking eyes, however, belie that simplicity. In his piercing look you feel traces of unforgiving intent born of suffering and loneliness. All in all he appears like a little, insecure, cornered animal who takes strong aggression to ward off the danger. Just below the small iron gate, towards the McLeodganj side of the hill bearing Tushita at its top, from where a cemented footpath climbs across a deodar grove ruled by monkeys, he has decided to give his all in the struggle to survive. This shortcut from McLeodganj square to Dharamkot bears a very steep gradient putting even the strongest of legs and lungs to a stern test. And this fact has made him sniff a little chance of enterprise. In this short but huffing and puffing, someone may need some drinks or light refreshments. He started with an innocuous move. Just below the small monastery gate, and by the side of a green-painted municipal iron bench, he started sitting on his haunches with a suffering downcast gaze, a few water bottles and cold drinks put on a sack on the ground. Against the hillside lay his small rack having small picture cards of Buddhism. He would greet the tourists, piggybacking his accent with 'Water?', and most of the time the unconcerned tourist would just move on. Then, as is typical of hill weather, rains would strike suddenly, forcing him to cover his little card rack with a polythene sheet. All this but appeared too much of a hassle with hardly any gains. Little did people realise that all this while he was doggedly, but determinedly, digging the foundations only. And then the day bearing the fruits of his determination arrived. He landed on the spot with a well-fabricated sheet-iron cubicle to shelter and define his little enterprise with more security and substance. It had a well-hinged door and a rectangular window with all the pretension of a safe showcase for all the biscuits, namkeens, juices, cold drinks, cakes, etc. 

Now, Tushita has an international reputation as an abode of undisturbed peace. They are the fighters for erasing worldly conceptions. There was an objection from the meditation centre on the grounds that he has infringed upon their property. He challenged them to call the patwari and get the land measured, assuredly pointing out that they themselves have encroached upon the forest land. He piercingly looked into their eyes and told them that the wire fence that they have set up transgresses the public land by at least 15 feet. There is a well-built, tall, white-haired woman (Indian) who seems to be somewhat influential in managing the Tushita affairs. She has anxious eyes and wears Indian clothes of a commoner, not a strictly religious person. She has been most vocal in her protest. She called the police. He doggedly served them mineral water, pampered their ego. ‘I have a license from the municipality,’ he says. ‘I pay 1500 rupees/month for this site,’ he is determined in his fight. 

The issue became more serious. One day, Tushita’s night watchman, who loiters among the grove with lantern in one hand and string of beads in the other, entered the cubicle to check out whether he was selling something objectionable. To Akash it was a big slap on his face, a scandalous transgression on his property. ‘I should have locked him up inside and called police and charged him with attempted robbery,’ he is trying to prove that he can be very clever in that regard. ‘They don’t know that my mamaji is a minister,’ he proclaims the famed Indian malady of having ‘back-up support’ which entitles you to take digs at the system and cut your portion of profit with the little knife of illegality. At a distance, Hyatt is constructing a five-star hotel. Famished, tired Bihari labourers go up and down the construction site. Now these stubborn, lightweight workers are very particular about gutka, bidi and ganja. Akash sees a big market there.

‘I know they will again raise objections, but I’m going to have all these things. It’ll help them a lot because they waste so much of their precious energy in going down to McLeodganj and get these. It’s also a social service,’ he laughs, more confident now that he has won the initial and strongest storm of protest against his enterprise. ‘Then of course, these people need tea also,’ he has a plan laid out. Within a span of 20 days, he has covered many a mile in the journey. He is there to stay, doggedly stuck up to his position, regardless of protests by the Tushita people. That’s how you get a foothold in a tremendously overpopulated country like India, where people-to-resource ratio is heavily skewed. Where people dig a deep well with their well-compromised demeanour to get sustenance for a day. You have to fight it out. There is hardly any time to blame destiny if you fall behind.

A summer at Mcleodganj - 8

 MAITRI AVLOKITA: Sometimes, little inconveniences, tiny roadblocks, small aberrations, innocently force a pause, a fraction of a restfulness, which gives rise to a big boon, a nice opportunity. Something similar along the same lines. My pen completed its journey in helping me write, forcing me to get out of the room, almost run to McLeodganj square, almost sprint down the temple road. More than the pen somewhere in a rack in some stationery shop, it was Maitri cutely perched on the steps in front of a shuttered shop. And here we go into another fusillade of discussion about humanism, syncretic efforts and what not. Maitri Avlokita, American Buddhist of the modern tradition drawn from Sravastivada teachings. He is a sea of knowledge and wisdom from which I enriched my humble self for 5 hours the other day. But today my brother saint was clever in dodging the talk and leaving for meditation. He is dedicated to bring about a synthesis of all the positives from the major world religions and offer a humanistic solution to mass suffering. In a nutshell, he is a soldier of peace, fighting for the religion of the future, humanism. He is a wonderful proponent of the syncretic tradition. Acceptance and tolerance are the need of the time. Humanism lies at the core of all religions; it is just that it lies buried under the blindfolding layers of vested interests. Buddhism is the spadework which can remove the hard crust allowing all religions to shine brighter and their followers happier. It’s a brother religion, common to all. It’s a kind comrade to one and all. Its philosophy is complementary to the missing parts. The suffering humanity will be forced to go for humanism. And no creed or belief system holds a copyright on the altruistic principles of humanism. However, Buddhism comes nearest to it. With marvellous flexibility and acceptance it has all which the suffering masses need. 

It’s the toughest path chosen by very rare and gutsy people. Sufferings and sacrifice are the weapons in the hands of the soldiers of peace. People like Maitri are in the vanguard of the new creed synthesising all the good that major religions of the world have to offer. Of course, it’s the toughest for those who volunteer to provide a fresh solace to the suffering humanity. It’s a critical phase in world history. Out of the chaos a new sun will arise — the sun of humanism aimed at truly liberating people and making them loving and compassionate. There are soldiers of peace who are breaking all the barriers which are still keeping the people chained to their age-old fears and insecurities. A new light ... these modern, all-accommodating soldiers of peace. Buddhism, being nearest to a practical humanistic philosophy of life, can serve as an easy-going, secular, non-sectarian pill of oneness. Just like by changing clothes you retain your skin, similarly by adopting the altruistic, humanistic philosophy, you retain the basic philosophy of your religion of birth. It’s just like taking extra nutrients to make your body healthier. Humanism, as propagated by Buddhism, is nothing but extra food for one’s soul, which just adds to the health of one’s soul, apart from the staple diet which your mother religion has been providing you to sustain your existence.

In this rapidly globalising world, mutual understanding and acceptance is almost an irreversible phenomenon. The venerable 13th Dalai Lama had prophesised way back in 1931 that Buddhism will be uprooted from Tibetan highlands by the red forces. However, the sun of Buddhism will rise from the West as humanism. All this is coming true in the 21st century. The way Westerners are taking up this rich food for the soul, it is really encouraging. Freed from the isolation in Tibet, Buddhism is flourishing in the open lands of one big, unified humanity. 

Buddhism, without requiring you to change your birth religion, lays down a very practical way of reaching the humanely possible state of enlightenment. It creates the potential to liberate the mind of most of the negative emotions, which cut down your share of happiness and the role you can play in the scheme of things around. Just like you exercise for physical strength, humanism is just mental exercise to dismantle the negativities of mind, enriching the brain's potential through breathing and visualisation practices. It doesn't remove your existing system of prayer, rather boosts it. Sravastivada systems of Buddhism accept Buddha as a human teacher, counselling people on the science of the awakened mind, enabling them a happier life. It does not aim to snatch you back from your parental belief system. It just aims to strengthen all that is good in you. It fights in support of your own religion, dispelling darkness.

The 10-day introductory course in Buddhism is a testing affair. Staying in the dormitories with minimal basic necessities, no speaking, no junk food. It's day-in, day-out preaching of Buddhist tenets and meditation practices. No wonder, just like any other disciplinary group activity, there are deserters midway through the course. When they come out for breaks they appear intimidated and drained out. The philosophical heavyweight is dumped too heavily within too short a period of time. Akash, his newly set-up iron cubicle by the road, below the Tushita gate, has stories to tell. Yesterday, right in the middle of it, a young foreign man deserted. He was ashamed of telling it to the Tushita people. He requested Akash to give them his letter of apology, stating his inability to continue. He left behind his bag, mobile and other things. A true renunciation. A burly big Indian who appeared so enthusiastic in the beginning, also lost steam, 'My mind is getting spoilt' and left. Another Indian boy quit. But the Indians could face them and claim back their luggage before leaving.

A summer at Mcleodganj - 7

 CHURCHYARD: There are the signs of the past. Mankind has had faith in stones. They are strong and durable and chief accomplices to we humans' efforts to leave a permanent mark in the interminable river of impermanence and everlasting transformations. But then, everything perishes finally. The mossy worms of time very patiently eat into the mammoth defence of stony facades, slowly eating into the innards.

Even after 150 years, many a gravestone still hold fistfuls of those colonial times, the times when the British set up garrisons in the Himalayas to manage their increasing dominion. Many graves have been reclaimed by the earth. Dying and decaying graves. Many others are halfway gone. And some are proudly blackened by the mossy worms of time holding their position. The epitaphs are slowly, slowly losing legibility, turning them into the graves of the unknown.

There are two tiny graves, a pair, set up side by side. The gravestones are small and unpretentious, and consequently solid, durable and long-lasting unlike the short lifespans of the infants buried under them. These are plain rectangular dark greyish granite slabs, placed horizontally on a slightly larger stone plinth. The borders are carved into a semi-floral pattern. The epitaphs in white, quite legibly hold the small summary of small lives.

On the darkening, mossy grey stones, dry cedar needles lay scattered as homage to the dead.

SACRED

TO THE MEMORY OF

RALPH MORRIS THE BELOVED INFANT SON OF

MR AND MRS WILLIAM WARD

BORN 6TH SEPTEMBER 1866

DIED 13TH JANUARY 1867

“I shall go to him but he shall not

return to me.”

SACRED

TO THE MEMORY OF

FANNY MABEL THE BELOVED CHILD

OF MR AND MRS WILLIAM WARD

BORD 8TH JULY 1865

DIED 11TH OCTOBER 1866.

“For of such is the kingdom of Heaven”

On the lower right-hand corner you have the gravestone maker’s signature — NUND RAM DELHI.

So there they lie, entwined in death which picked them up. The elder, Fanny Mabel, who lived for 1 year 3 months, to the left and Ralph Morris, her brother of 1 month and 5 days, who lived for 4 months and 7 days, coming here to lie by the side of his sister, just 3 months and 2 days after his sister was buried.

Short lives whose biography is almost covered by the few lines of their epitaphs. But between these few lines having names and dates countless moments of joy and routine worries and issues must have been lived. It won’t make a big story, but that story lies buried somewhere.

Until October 16, 1866, the Wards had two children, a girl and a boy—a complete world with all the reasonably pleasant possibilities. And during the next four months of a cruel winter, they would lose all they had.

And the name of NUND RAM from Delhi also survives in the story. The protagonist, the gravestone maker, not as someone who chiselled and dressed the unpretentious stones, but for his blunder — the blunder which is etched in stone and stands up as a villain in the tiny story. In Fanny Mabel’s epitaph, BORN is misspelt as BORD, almost an unpardonable error.

And the error once introduced, and the stone tablets being transported so laboriously into the hills, was there to stand as a testimony to time.

Such are the stories, with their similarly brief summaries of birth and death dates, which lay buried in the churchyard. And there is a flux of change around, the interminable fluidity of impermanence, transformations, changes of an endless continuity in which no moment is the same — the infinite continuum. And the stories in the graveyard stand, holding their decaying posts, calling attention the agonies and ecstasies which happened a century and a half ago. It’s a poignant nostalgia.

A summer at Mcleodganj - 6

 MAITRI AVLOKITESVARA: The modern monk, having tattoos. He is a proponent of Sravastivada school of Buddhism. As per this school of thought, Buddha was a human being who aspired to realize his full potential for the common good. They don't worship him like a deity. Maitri is against orthodoxy which he says is a means to propagate the commercial hold of the religious authorities. Invited him for tea at the rooftop restaurant of M Hotel on the Temple road. He accepted and we had almost 5 hours of chatting covering as many topics as possible.

He is a Mexican. His father, who proudly claimed a lineage from Spanish nobility, was a man. They migrated to Texas. His mother was as hardworking as any other Indian housewife. His father beat her very violently. At the age of 15, while the man was beating his wife, Maitri threw himself upon his father to save his mother. He just hates him for his violence. 'Your karma returns to you,' he says. 'My father is a racist and hates black people.'

But see the irony: my sister had married a black man,' he informs. Eighteen years ago he became a defrocked Christian pastor. He sees through the mist of mythology to actually see the way religious texts have been copied from the original Hindu texts. People have been taking inspiration to construct their theologies. Judaism has huge imprints of Indian classical texts.

He is working for a synthesis of Buddhist philosophy in the modern setting, i.e., modern monks who are not just bound by lines in stone. Apart from classical Buddhist texts, they should be skilled enough to take a job, or be in a position to give back to society, instead of just counting beads, or busy on their smartphones like they do these days.

He has suffered a lot as you might expect any sensitive soul to have. His hard work in corporate in the field of dermatology, massage therapy by made him an eyesore in many an insecure heart.

His kohl-lined blue eyes easily fill up with tears on discussions about people's sufferings. It needs a lot of guts to renounce the religion you have been born into. It's like pulling off your skin. Tattooed, blue eyes, shining in maroon robes. He was too strong when he landed up and local monks eyed him with pinching curiosity. He has lost a lot of weight through fasting, but still looks strong by Indian standards.

Ironically, there have been many love interests expressed by men in McLeodganj. 'Male-to-male, or even male-to-female, proximity is a taboo here. People are just so uncomfortable. Many boys do think that I'm a master of Tantra sex and have offered themselves to me,' He laughs heartily. 'I don't scorn them off. I respect their expression of love and channel it into empathy and genuine friendliness!' 

A summer at Mcleodganj - 5

 When the western sky is clear in the evening, and you see the setting sun over the hill to the west, it acquires mystical proportions. Golden-yellow rays come filtering across the stoically straight canopies of Himalayan cedar and artistically arching trunks of grey oak. The faded green leaves of the grey oak shine profusely. Even during the hottest months the rays of the setting sun feel soothing because a cool breeze builds up. Misty veiled valleys appear drenched in silence and solitude. Tushita adopts an even more mysteriously peaceful environment. On the platform overlooking the wooded western valley there are cast-iron benches. Sitting here can give you the treat of a lifetime.

We have made disproportionate noise to our existence so there is the need to maintain silence. Other species still retain their quota of going on a noisy spree. Monkeys make the full use of their quota. Being our ancestors, they have the guts to rub shoulders against our skins. Their selves ooze with fun mischief and frolics. They make full use of their funny speciality in the trees around Tushita. The master acrobats. Daring to jump onto newer and newer targets among the highest branches overlooking the deepest precipices. They are simply tireless when it comes to pulling off antics. They are not sinners, so need not show imposed reverence for the meditation centre. No wonder you find them rolling all over the place, jumping on tin roofs, hanging around the balcony railings, on the gompas, in the main gompa, when some high Lama is preaching, they even push the big golden red ornate door to peep in inquisitively. Then they suddenly go so stoic, sitting on a branch like a tiny stoic.

Presently, a 10-day course (Introduction to Buddhism) is in progress. It's a high-potential spiritual pill. The schedule is very tight, very high on theological texts and meditation. And all this is carried out in utter silence. There are intermittent sessions of preaching and meditation practices. There are short breaks, even during which some people prefer to read and write. Something substantial indeed. 

DRINKING MONKS: It's just natural to have some people who get into some taboos.

On Tushita road, near the gate leading to the steep, concrete paved narrow path leading uphill to the meditation centre, a very endearingly simple man has a tiny shack. He has water bottles, biscuits, drinks and tiny pamphlet sermons.

‘Drink water, alcohol take no risk,’ he is shouting matter of factly. A Tibetan monk in maroon and his common house-holder companion have actually sat down by the road to take a mischievous liberty. It may even appear scandalous. They have just availed themselves of a peg or two.

Simplicity carries its invisible weight and consequent authority. The roadside vendor is serious in his warning. They listen to him and move on.

Well, no system is perfect. You will always have someone on the other side who is seen jumping over the fence to get a relaxing sip of the so-called sin. So there are monks who drink as well as have sex. Not earth-shattering sins, but pretty big ones from the point of view of the organised religion.

OLD NUN: Old nuns are the most cordial of the order. They carry a languorous ease with them. It's like an enjoyable journey coming to a majestic end, as important in majesty as the beginning. Well, we cannot categorise them so specifically. These overlap into each other.

She stays in a small iron-sheet-roofed structure just below the road. Her small stooped figure tied in maroon robes, she is very seriously busy with something. There is a bunch of iron water pipes running down from the water tank up there. She has no water connection. But then things have leakages in India, and oftentimes these come in handy for the needy. She is lucky to have a loose joint just above her shelter. A thin squirt gushes out. Here is a very smart jugaad. Water bottles are fixed and tied to gather the water. Then a plastic pipe thrust into the bottles' mouth to get the drain into her larger bucket below. Monkeys have enriched the tidings. She is using all her force to fix it. I greet her and instantly she chuckles, ‘Help karega?’, So here I am crouched on my knees, using the best of my ability, fixing the contrivance.

SAMTA

Stabilisation — Focusing on your breath in a body part where you feel that tension is piled up. Focusing the breathing pattern on one’s stomach brings clarity of mind. No thinking; just being aware of the breathing pattern, slowly, gently without any effort.

Analytical

It’s all about cognition. You deeply ponder over a point of Buddhist philosophy. Like — appreciation for your luck, anger management, principles of impermanence, etc.

TIBETAN HOLY MONTH

May 16: Start of the month-long Saka Dawa festival, one of the holiest Tibetan Buddhist festivals. Day-long prayers at the temple. The second floor is full of monks and laymen sitting, chanting, counting beads, rolling hand prayer wheels. There is a very nice addition: an acknowledgement of Indian support. An element of langar. They have started serving tea and rice to Indian tourists. Indians revere Buddha just like any other deity in their pantheon. So, religiously, things go very smoothly.

It's an exquisite culture. The little stalls, makeshift shops, showrooms and shops are all full of innumerable things: statues, handicraft, wares, religious trinkets, purses, what not. It requires a tremendous amount of patience to be there on duty, by your tiny collection, just watching so many glide by even without looking in your direction, and the majority of those who cast a cursory look, then move on without any interest in your things. There are days when you don't get even a single customer. There are then eating points, big and small, cafes, tea shops, momo stalls, and somewhere in this busy thoroughfare little opportunities develop which prove to be the means of your sustenance and survival. Holding the string of beads, chanting Om Mani Padme Hum, watching Westerners' interest in Buddhism, praying for His Holiness Dalai Lama's health and longevity, seeing the phenomenal rise of China, anxiously watching India's equations with China, the days turn into weeks, months and years. And then you have the funky youngsters who prefer the phone to the string of beads.

A summer at Mcleodganj - 4

 May 19, 2018: A big stroke of luck. His Holiness the Dalai Lama met the western and Indian tourists. He had a group photo with people of various nationalities, shook hands, allowed people to touch him. Felt His Holiness's healing touch. Feeling blessed. Was able to hold His hand and put it on my head. The nearest I felt to a godly presence. His compassion, knowledge and perfect innocence make him a darling master monk. Listening to Him, I felt unburdened of life's complexities. Everything became so simple, and every moment so enjoyable. He clears your doubts more easily than you wipe your slate. And icing on the cake: His sense of humour. It just takes you in its cutely chuckling folds, telling you that life is beautiful. Long live His Holiness!

He spoke about oneness of humanity, lauded religious pluralism of India, its ancient philosophy and heritage. He said 'I'm a student of the Nalanda tradition and scholar of Indian spiritual matters.' Feeling blessed! 

MAITRI AVLOKITESVARA: Aged 46, from American-Mexican descent. Has been a Christian pastor. There is a tattoo of crucifixion on his throat, to which many other tantric symbols of Buddhism have been added on his body. Has visited almost 100 countries. A professional dermatologist, massage healer and psychological counsellor. Quitted a highly paid job in traditional dermatological medicines. Found corporate dehumanised. Presently staying at the Dalai Lama's Monastery in McLeodganj and doing research on traditional Tibetan and Ayurveda medicines in the field of skin care. Speaks proficiently. Blue eyes which are kohl lined. Maroon robes. He is against the commercial aspect of the organised religion. It is all out there for Bodhichitta (karuna, compassion). I call him the soldier of peace. He believes that Buddha was born somewhere in Afghanistan, the seat of Gandhara school of art. He visualises him as a blue-eyed Aryan. Says there are researches conducted in that direction.

 BONNY — American woman aged 70. Took the vow of Brahmacharya at 45. A fully initiated nun in maroon robes. Has been living in India for decades, even owning a property and has more than decent workable knowledge of Hindi. She has an Aadhaar card and is eligible for Indian citizenship. However, despite renouncing almost all past of her American life and identity, she retains her American passport and rightly so. An American citizen is a valued species, and the superpower's passport is a guarantee against many a risk one may run into while travelling across the globe. She agrees that Buddhist philosophy, with its core principle of karma and altruism, is very attractive. At least on paper, or in sermons. But it's very tough to bring into practice, i.e., to make it part of your instinctive nature, so that, by your very nature, you put the interests of others above your own requires years and years of training the mind. Mankind has been historically very insecure, scared of wild animals in the forest, so naturally we evolved to be self-centred. To beat this instinct, bred over thousands of years, in one lifetime is a mammoth task, yet achievable. And there have been many souls who have tamed the bug of self-centredness to emerge as all-loving, compassionate, altruistic human beings. Even His Holiness accepted that it took him decades of training the mind to reach a level when he feels 'others' pains as his own, and feels happy when others are happy.

Doesn't matter how far you have reached along the path, all that matters is the huge amount of positive energy which is generated in this quest. It must be acting as a sort of counterforce against all the negativities prevailing around.

Beggar: Legs, which always fuel our competitive run in life, have been denied to him. Born in a place near Gaya, he was brought here by a Buddhist monk to become the means of charity for others. And he has been an efficient one. Having lost the chances of running in life physically, he gains reasonably well in the form of bucks in his begging bowl. He has a mobile, stays in touch with his wards back home, visits them two or three times a year to hand over the thousands he has collected. 

Buddhist monks: Cool, composed, relaxed, life in a pause. They are basically very happy with two things: sunglasses and mobile phones. These have become as important as the rosary in their hands. There is an emphasis on constant mindfulness of 'Om Mani Padme Hum' which they do very diligently. But then smartphones are a cool diversion. They hold childlike fancy for the instrument. Counting the beads, smiling, surfing on the phone, these are their favourite pastimes. They are robust, well-fed and calmed down. And quite surprisingly, unlike the famished mendicant friars in Hinduism who struggle to make ends meet (and how will you go into the practice of mindfulness on an empty stomach?) their wallets carry pleasant weight, leaving them free of worries regarding seeing the end of the day. There is a huge system of donations from rich Buddhist countries. Its effects visible in well-fed portions of the monks. Of course it leaves them with plenty of happiness and free time to count the prayer beads. But it feels good to see happy people of the religion.

Your own faith gets a boost.

Overall, the Tibetan community in exile is not that badly placed as you would expect of displaced people, struggling to make a foothold in a foreign land. It has been a long and arduous struggle though. For others to help you, first you have to help yourself! And this they did right from the beginning. When you proclaim the freedom of your mind, instead of settling for a chained-down life with some material gains, you should be ready to walk almost across fire. And this they readily did. They followed their leader across the treacherous paths across the Himalayas and with happy selves accepted a life from the beginning. Faith has its own set of powers. It pushes you into the hardly imaginable zone. The heat of north India was unbearable. They worked as coolies on railway tracks, spent most of their time keeping the stoic, colourful slice of their unique religion — which covered up for most of their hardships, and carried on with the mission of survival. The world knew that they had been horribly wronged. If not the outright support, there was sympathy. At least there were donations from well-off Buddhist countries and Western nations. All this happened of course because everybody could see them helping themselves. The purity of purpose, and that too just to the extent of maintaining the purity of your culture, is of course recognised. Well, God helps those who help themselves. So definitely there will be many human hands coming to help you, provided you have been helping yourself to your full potential.

The Chinese have failed to dethrone His Holiness from his spiritual seat. He is not merely a Tibetan leader now. With his relentless practice of compassion and humanitarian thought, he is a world leader now. The monasteries which were destroyed in Tibet are now sprouting in every nook and corner of the world. Tibetan Buddhism has risen like a Phoenix. And the funniest thing — China accuses His Holiness of spiritual terrorism.

A summer at Mcleodganj - 3

 BUDDHISM: The core philosophy, like any other organised religion, is compassion for the collective world. Generally, this fundamental value gets lost somewhere when the religiosity is put into practice. Buddhism scores over other religions in this regard. In the simplest of meditative practices, it is emphasised that I meditate, and thus create the positive energy, not just for myself, but for everything around. I grow as a part of the infinite continuum. This basic motivation, this selfless will for the greater common good, is repeatedly reminded to the person through mind, words and action, stotras, chanting. It is basically a practice of compassion and love. All the practices chisel and hone your compassion, to make you a better human being. In a world tired and torn apart by violence and bloodbaths, Buddhism with its core philosophy of humanism will be the panacea. Everybody, be it a Hindu, Sikh, Christian, Moslem, can strive to be a Buddha without formal initiation, without officially converting. It can be the melting pot of basic human principles.

May 16, 2018: His Holiness the Dalai Lama conferred the Avalokiteshvara Six-Syllable Empowerment at the main temple.

Yesterday there was a long queue to get the security pass. The tiny office was stuffed with Tibetans and foreigners. People killed time by bantering, teasing and pulling one another’s legs. When someone came out of the small cubicle, people looked at his entry pass as though he or she were holding a World Cup.

Helped Naga in sneaking in and introduced her to a Taiwanese couple. Got my security pass after almost 4 hours.

This morning everybody was rushing to the temple to get an appropriate place to sit. There was a very long queue of schoolgirls in green chulla skirts, green sweaters and white shirts. Freckle-faced, chirpy girls going quick-footed to see their religious head.

Drenched in devotion, Tibetans of all hues swarmed the place in great numbers. Monks, nuns, laymen, all rolling their prayer beads, and tireless chanting of 'Om Mani Padme Hum'.

Was lucky to find a place on the first floor from where I could see the Holy Soul preaching and conducting the ceremony.

The the theologian and intellectual in Him is counterpoised by the cutest and most innocent smile. He laughs like a child. He has lost so much in terms of land, in fact a nation. There is but no bitterness. The tragedy has been converted into an opportunity to spread Buddhist humanism far and wide.

The great monk slowly moved down the staircase, gently waving to the people, smiling the trademark innocence. On the ground floor, moving to his Land Cruiser, he touched the hands of Tibetan children who went berserk with joy due to the holy touch.

The spiritual marshal, helped by his guards, got on a stool to get into the front seat.

An enlightening experience.

OM — Impurity of mind, body and speech in the sentient beings.

Mani — मणि (Jewel) — Bodhichitta — The state of altruistic all-encompassing love and compassion.

Padme — Lotus — The wisdom of emptiness,

Hum — The combination of Mani and Lotus.

TUSHITA MEDITATION CENTRE: It's a peaceful monument standing on top of a hill (Dharamkot) overlooking McLeodganj. Embraced by fabulous greenery of cedar and grey oak it's seeped in solitude. There is a short-cut from McLeodganj square. Unfortunately, apart from birds, monkeys are the only surviving animals, and they give you the way as you approach on the path. Tushita Gompa is a colourful monument, with a decorated altar, Buddha statue, wooden floors, prayer mats, cushions, library, dormitories, retreat settings, ornate stupas and the gentlest staff.

If there is food, people come to it to satisfy their hunger. If there is peace and contentment, or the means of achieving these, available freely at a place, the wounded souls will surely reach there to get healed.

The Dutchman is fully into it. About 2 years ago his body gave up. The doctors gave up on him, so he decided to help himself. He came exploring the oriental lands, looking for self-healing. The tenets and mindfulness of Buddhism filled the voids in his soul. His body responded to the balanced equanimity. He survived, felt thankful for the great gift of life, and following the core principle of Buddhism, altruism, compassion for all, he is distributing the fruits of the purity he gained. He leads the 9:30 a.m. drop-in meditation hour in the gompa. Presently he has gone into a 17-day fasting and purification retreat in the isolated sections for higher tantra practices.

Then there is this woman from Serbia. I suppose she has witnessed the worst mankind has to offer to his own species — war, violence, genocide. There, I am afraid, may have been cases of very personal nature in the war-torn country. She has found her peace here in these glades of Himalayan cedar, grey oaks and pines. One simply cannot be a miser with peace and contentment. It just overflows. She also is putting balm on many a bruised heart. Right now, she is leading the drop-in meditation sessions.

A life of moderate wealth, sufficient to cover the basic necessities, and moderate, regular sufferings, let's say regular challenges, or the ordinary roadblocks, are the means of a middle-path life. Too much of wealth may put one beyond realities of life, making him/her disillusioned. Also, too much poverty chains you down to the basic worries of life, leaving painful scars. Similarly, too much of suffering makes you self-obsessed about your own needs. If there is no suffering at all, one has a tendency to get overboard and become insensitive and inconsiderate. So love your basic means of sustenance and the routine challenges, because both of these keep you on the path of Dharma.