More people, more heat, less water in the holy river, more rituals, more pollution and garbage and plastic waste on the Neelkanth track.
The forest doesn't look and feel fresh even in the early morning. Nature seems tired, having overworked itself to keep absorbing the dirtying deeds and maligning needs of her children.
Less water in the brooks on the way, more plastic waste dotting the foot track. Fewer birds, fewer bird songs—a wailing call of some bird echoing through the valley, a very sad call, coming as the dying songs of the birds.
No elephant poop near the track. They have retreated further into the hills for food and free movement.
Just one creamy butterfly, even though it is still the season of spring in these Himalayan foothills.
Little groups of greenish, sparrow-sized birds—they are still maintaining a healthy population.
A foreigner in a white T-shirt and grey cargoes, making the most of what this deciduous forest has to offer. He takes shortcuts, going up steep hillsides, along dry water channels. He is clicking pictures with a boy's enthusiasm.
I see him appearing and disappearing as I move slowly, steadily, attuning myself to the rhythm of the tap-tap-tap sound of the crooked stick I hold.
The stick taps with a measured friendliness.
One more step, one more tap.
The wood and the sound it makes turn friendlier as I move on.
Tiny groups of youngsters come rushing from behind and pass me with a swag. But all of them I meet resting on the way, upslope, after some time.
The smartphone seems to have sapped their energies, making them dull and less imaginative, habituated to instant gratification. Their calf muscles and lungs and hearts don't seem to sustain a steady, relaxed, joyful walk on a forest track, on small rolling hills.
A tiring restlessness seems to be toying with them.
I again meet the foreigner about a kilometre from the temple. The path forks into two and he is confused about which one to take. I point out the correct one from a little distance.
He is clicking the little arched gateway and the bell dangling from the top.
When I arrive, we start talking as we walk to the holy shrine.
He is Alex from Brazil, works in the Amazon forest in a department dealing with the natives. He lost his son five years back.
“I was suffering terribly. Then I came here and Bhagwan Shiva and Lord Hanuman enabled me to bear the pain, took me in their blessed, caring charge,” he tells me.
With his faith, he seems to have overcome grief and accepted the reality of his loss.
A man in his sixties, full-faced, with a white beard, he is now walking to the place where Bhagwan Shiva consumed poison, as he says, after the churning of the seas by the gods and daityas.
We take prasad from a shop near the temple. He gets late in arranging things. I move along the little line of pilgrims and I am lucky to have darshan before the gates are closed for an hour for performing rituals in the sanctum sanctorum.
It is off-season and few pilgrims stand in the queue to have darshan of the holy lingam.
I whisper a prayer in the ears of Nandi in front of Shiva.
The Shiva lingam, the black, ancient-looking form, is loaded with flowers and bel-patras. As I approach the holy lingam, I pour holy water on the brass lingam, the water flowing through a brass runway to fall on the tiny fragment of rock placed in the middle of the shrine chamber.
I am just out of the shrine when he comes with his puja thali.
He has to wait for one hour to have darshan.
He asks for a suitable place where he can meditate. I think he was lucky in spending one extra hour at the holy place.
On the way, he had picked a small trident-shaped crown of a weed and said, “Even this is Shiva.”
He spoke at length about deforestation in the Amazon.
“The wild animals don't attack women as they do the men because men pose a threat. They attack with guns,” he says.
“Yes, world over, it is we men who have been unleashing wars and blood,” I say. “I think the world government should be handed over to women for some time. There will be fewer bloody wars, even though there will be more noise and gossip among the heads of states,” I say, and we laugh.
The legend of Neelkanth Mahadevji, according to Shruti, Smriti and Purana, draws its origin to the times of Samudra Manthan, the churning of the Ocean of Milk by demons and gods.
Fourteen jewels were produced during the churning, Kalakuta (poison) being one of them.
As a kind of fatherly figure, Lord Shiva consumed the poison. To soothe the flame of poison in his throat, he meditated for sixty thousand years under a Panchparni tree near the confluence of the Madhumati and Pankaja rivers.
Before going back to Kailas, the mighty Lord consecrated a Kantha-shaped lingam for the welfare of the people.
They say it is self-manifested.
I move on to cross over to the other hill on the way to Hanuman Temple, about two kilometres away, leaving Alex behind in a meditative mood, waiting for his turn when the shrine doors will open again after an hour.
The Hanuman Temple is a big one, and it stands on the top of a steep hill overlooking Neelkanth.
The pujari at Hanuman Temple has grown very old during the last year. But he still goes through all the rituals needed to keep the purity of the idols in the sanctum sanctorum. His disciple has to help him in getting up and moving around. So much changes in one year. Just a year back, he had quipped with the innocent mischief of an adolescent.
“You can have siddhis if you follow a few rituals and ceremonies that I suggest,” he told me, as I opened my eyes in the temple after meditation.
There are certain things which the energy does to one's head, and maybe he guessed, or he had this opinion about my energies because he put his hand on my head, on my Ajna chakra at the back of my neck, and then quipped this—that you can have siddhis. You are already there.
I believe in the siddhi powers of yogis. It is practically a science of yantra, mantra, tantra at the subtle energy level, but somehow, even though keenly interested in spirituality, I have never felt drawn towards attaining siddhi powers, either through tapasya or a guru's blessings.
I somehow find it to be unnatural, even unethical.
After paying my respects to the old priest and making a little donation, and after praying in front of the majestic Durga Mata idol and Lord Hanuman's idol, I start walking towards Maa Parvati Temple, two or three kilometres away.
And then I recall Alex, the Brazilian gentleman.
I remember him telling me that he really respects Mahatma Gandhi, the prophet of peace, and then he had asked me, “Do you know Mother Teresa? She was from Brazil,” he says proudly. Then we talked about her charity works.
“Modi has gone to Israel,” he says.
“Lula just came to India,” I reply.
Then we talked about powerful people who are wreaking havoc on Earth.
Now, it is hot noon as the remnants of these talks do very lazy rounds in my head.
The noon is building up really hot as I move on the trail.
Maa Parvati Temple is situated on the top of a little hill about three kilometres from Hanuman Temple. I am the only one on the path. The woods are pale, without any charm. The sun is bright.
Maa Parvati Temple is surrounded by a small hill-top hamlet. Little prasad shops line the path passing through the small hill houses.
One of the shops is owned by an old woman. Season or no season, pilgrims or no pilgrims, she is always there in front of her shop. I don't recall a single instance when I haven't seen her at her post.
The small temple is empty.
I approach Mata's lovingly decked-up idol across the hall. I walk gently and don't strike the bell.
The priest is dozing with sleep in front of Maa's idol. From the entrance to the hall, it seems he is soundly asleep.
As I stand in front of Maa Parvati's graceful idol, I find him busy scrolling his smartphone. Phones have taken possession of modern-day life even in remote peaceful hill temples.
Paying my respects and disturbing the priest's social-media session, I walk across the narrow passage through the hamlet towards the famous Jhilmil Caves, where many rishis, including Guru Gorakhnath, Sage Jhilmil and Dhruv Bhagat, did tapasya in the past.
They say even the Pandavas had taken shelter here during their agyatvas, the time during exile when they were not to be recognized by anyone.
The sun is hot, the grass beaten by the winter just gone, a depressive lethargy wailing in the small wooded valleys.
The cave is on Manikoot Parvat, the abode of many enlightened souls. It looks very ancient, and it feels plausible that it hosted mythical sages in its blackened grooves, natural arcs, recesses and stalactites. There is a natural skylight in the roof at the back. It makes it airy and well-ventilated.
There is light.
It's a living environment.
As I pass the cave, I stand near the entrance, fold my hands and move on further to visit Ganesh Gufa, about one kilometre onwards.
A sadhu from Jhilmil Cave is busy on the phone. It seems a serious issue.
Ganesh Gufa is on the other side of Manikoot Parvat, towards the back side overlooking another deeply wooded valley.
There are frequent warnings about elephants, leopards and bears.
The few shops that dot the final stretch to the gufa are locked. Not many people come here. The Shravan pilgrims may trickle up this far after visiting Neelkanth.
One shop is open.
I can see bottles of cold drinks and packets, pouches and sachets of chips, namkeen and biscuits on a small metal rack. A curtain is half drawn across the little door frame.
I don't see anyone and go down the steps towards the gufa.
“Kindly close the door after having darshan” is written on the grilled iron gate to the shrine.
I go in and put my head on the cemented floor of the small cave.
Lord Ganesha is painted with vermilion. It's a natural idol, a rounded stone looking like the auspicious God with his prominent trunk.
I strike the bell hanging from the chain.
The sound is answered by a shouty, “Who is there?”
It must be the shopkeeper, I think.
I don't answer the first time, but then he asks again.
“I am a yatri seeking darshan,” I say.
There is a very old wooden chair at the back of the wall facing Lord Ganesha's naturally manifested idol. I sit on it and chant the Ganesh mantra.
After meditating and chanting, I come out slowly, close the cave's gate as instructed and go to the tiny shop by the cave side.
The man must be in his early sixties.
I take a water bottle and a little Sprite cold drink.
As I drink the cold drink, sitting on a little mud bench overlooking the valley below, the shopkeeper comes and sits nearby.
The people in the hills would love to talk to a stranger. They have all the time for talks.
“You must be feeling lonely. Hardly anyone comes this far, save during the Shravan pilgrimages, when some pilgrims venture this far after having darshan of Neelkanth Mahadev,” I say to him.
He says yes it's lonely but good to be left alone.
I am not carrying much money—the bliss and bane of digital payments.
He points to a scan code hanging at the end of a string from the shed roof.
I scan the payment code. The camera catches the code—twing—the money is safe in his account.
He is happy.
He points to a place on the opposite hill across the valley.
“That is my village,” he says.
He is the purohit of the cave.
“Even though I am not decked up like a priest,” he says unapologetically.
He is wearing a well-worn plain shirt and trousers of a householder.
He points towards the cave, meaning to indicate Jhilmil Cave on the other side, and says, “They are monks in name only. They make easy money without doing anything. They smoke weed, get lots of respect and reverence. They just pay lip service to dharma, a mere formality. The cave is a property to them.”
He is clearly against the monks in Jhilmil Cave.
“This is a holy mountain, this Manikoot Parvat. It is the abode of many holy souls. They may come in front of you in the form of an animal or a beggar or a madman. You have to be conscious of your behaviour or reaction. They appear in front of you to test you.
“All this political talk about danger to Hinduism from Islam is an eyewash. I know many Muslims. They are poor, harmless people, working hard to survive. It is we Hindus who have put Hinduism under danger. We pay lip service only. Our faith has grown hollow. Even Christians have more faith in Hinduism, more than us. In fact, they are keeping more faith for our gods.”
I am listening to his narration as he speaks out his views frankly, honestly, without any filter.
He must have spent many lonely days here near the holy cave.
He seems set for a long chat, but I have to go back to Jhilmil Cave, meditate for some time and then walk down the hills to Rishikesh.
So I get up again and transfer one hundred and one rupees to his account as dakshina, because he has said that he is the pujari here.
I take leave.
He keeps shouting, still continuing with his conversation.
I walk back to Jhilmil Cave.
The ancient-looking, rugged, blackened niche of divinity in the mountain's stony ramparts.
The walk inside is a stepped one. You go up as you go into the cave, and once you have reached the uppermost platform, you stand under the broad circular opening in the cave's roof from which plenty of sunlight pours down.
I sit in front of Baba Gorakhnath's idol at the cave's back, on the platform where they say the powerful and miracle-showing Baba had meditated for years, many centuries back.
I sit in silence.
I have a theory of how to be at such powerful energetic places.
One just needs to be openly aware of the sanctity and importance of a holy place and just open with the self, without questioning, without trying to do something special to harness blessings from the place. Just be there with ease, open up, and whatever is needed for you in this and subtler dimensions gets accomplished naturally, of its own.
I sit in silence, in humility, in acceptance of my shortcomings, my pursuit for a stable self. I feel the play of energy when I open my eyes after an hour or so.
I see three or four young men are also trying to meditate. Some of their friends are enjoying weed smoke with the resident Babas on the platform down there by the entrance to the cave.
I take leave of the holy place.
I am tired. The afternoon sun is very hot.
About a couple of kilometres from Neelkanth, I see a figure.
She seems like a bundle of soiled clothes in an inversion, a place where the path passes through a depression, so it is a descent from both sides.
I see her once in a year.
The old woman is about 90.
“So you are still giving a tough time to Yamaraj,” I laugh as I approach her.
She grins, recognizing me.
“What to do, beta?”
“It is easy,” I say. “Just take the Lord's name, stop breathing and go out,” I joke.
She chuckles.
“It's not that easy,” she says.
Her husband is also alive. He is in the second half of his nineties.
Now the most important issue: she expects big charity from me.
Whenever I come here, she expects nothing less than 500 rupees, and even if I come multiple times on one particular trip, she expects that I pay her every time we meet.
She brings notes of suffering into her tone, shows me her hands, “got needles,” she mumbles, and then says something about it costing money.
I give her 500 rupees.
She is happy and blesses me by putting both her hands on my head.
“I hope to see you next year,” I say as I take leave.
She has tears in her eyes again.
I can hear her blessing words as I ascend and move ahead on the path.
A bit further, on a wayside bench under the shade of the slope, I see the old Baba.
I had met him the year before last. He was very old even than. When I didn't see him last year, I thought maybe he had shed his body.
It feels good to see him still around.
He has grown very-very old, and the good thing is, he has been on pilgrimages to Manimahesh, Chitrakoot, Banaras and other places during these two years.
He knows many sayings, parables, the kind which convey big meaning in just a couple of lines.
I don't have even a single paisa to offer him as dakshina.
When he sees that I am genuinely missing making this donation, he takes out a small phone, the ones which one sees rarely these days.
“Charge it for one month,” he says.
The phone is time-worn, donated a long time back by someone near Narmada in Central India.
Smartphones have turned us quite dull to the basics of such old base models.
He doesn't know his number.
His phone has no talk-time value in it; it means I can't even make a missed call to my phone to know his number.
The Baba remembers his chela, Sonu. He says he is a nice boy in Uttar Pradesh.
I call him, but he does not pick up.
“Call his wife,” the Baba says, and gives me another number from memory.
I'm surprised that he remembers long-digit phone numbers, that too multiple ones of his followers, but he is not aware of his own phone number.
So as I call this second number, a woman picks up, but the call is immediately taken up by her husband, Sonu.
The Baba asks his chela to give me his—that is, Baba's—number, so that I can recharge it.
The chela gives a number.
I confirm it twice.
I go into phone recharge on my phone and check out the plans available for the number.
I pick out a plan of 489 for three months.
“Why waste so much money?” the Baba says.
He says it from the heart and means it.
But I proceed to recharge it.
The recharge-successful bell twinkles, but there is no recharge message on Baba's phone.
I call back a few times on the number we have recharged.
Nobody picks up.
Then it is switched off.
Suspecting something fishy, we call back Sonu.
He is adamant that it is the correct number he has given. He raises a theory about something being wrong with Baba's old phone.
I give up.
I know the chela has duped me.
I hope he didn't give his girlfriend's number for a free recharge.
I am slightly upset that the intended charity got somewhere else, into someone's purse whom I don't know.
The Baba is calm and at peace.
“Don't worry, all is well. The donation is forwarded from your side with pious intentions. It is complete from your side. Your karma is fulfilled in this.”
He speaks very kindly.
I take leave with parting words about his chela being very smart.
“Please don't trust him blindly,” I say.
But he just smiles.
Trust.
Trust and faith are all he has, this old Baba.
It proves to be a very long day of walking.
I walk through the evening, my stick handle loose and rolling. It rolls after me, making a constant dragging sound.
That also is its support.
I reach Rishikesh when the night has fallen.
The pilgrims are savouring spicy food in the narrow, shop-stuffed bazaar after the evening Ganga arati—worship of Food Devata after melodious prayers to Mother Ganga.