Ten years is more than sufficient time to unleash
massive changes in a metropolis like Delhi. But certain features are so
deep-rooted that one can feel their shadows even while the things seem to have
changed drastically. This sketch about Delhi is exactly a decade old but I’m
sure you will still feel these lingering shadows when you visit the national
capital.
Here is an early December morning. Salutes Delhi! To
make it sound normal you are two-eyed. But there are different visions,
different dreams, different destinations. Too much for a pair of eyes, for
sure.
One of your pan-shots captures the swanky
glitz-and-glamour of the resurgent India. Whether it is right-eye pan-shot or
the left-eye, I do not know. But yes, the other eye’s camera shot pervasively
covers the classic tragedies spread out in black and white. It’s a grizzled,
murky screen having classic farce and tragedies spinning, whirring around the
same axis.
It’s Muharram
today. Many offices are closed. It just means you can drop your purse on the
DTC bus floor and still you are left with a realistic chance of retrieving it.
Eighth wonder almost! So at least you can see a few square feet of space around
you. Great solace indeed. The air too is not stuffed with guffaws let out by
infected throats and lungs, disordered stomachs, cheap scents and Deos from
Palika Bazaar and above all the usual individual and collective frustrations
drenched with hot, musty sweat.
See, when the vehicle-maker offers these buses
(allegedly along with the kickbacks per piece and which is more important to
our rampaging politicians), the real cost of the machine is just meant to carry
this type of load, the festival load, once-in-a-time load when not many people
travel on account of holidays or some other emergency.
On this observable stage, a 14-year-old man-kid
jumbles into the finally justified interiors of the poor green line. Boy he is
a real man, carries a pole that would tower above the poor bus if their
vertical components competed. He slants it, his small hands manoeuvre it
smartly and the camel is safely in the room. The pole is the dancing axis of
many types of cheapest toys as you might say can be afforded by the childhoods
mushrooming in the slums. All fellow-riders watch him in half amuse and half
irritation. Some lampoons like yours truly even laugh at the free show.
Anyways, coming back to this character valiantly
playing its part in the grizzly black and white ever-spooling movie. He rushes
to the conductor seat after killing all the apprehensions and objections of the
buswala about the pole falling and
the kids-stuff getting a playground on their heads. The boy-entrepreneur gets
the DTC day-pass costing 40 rupees. Man-o-man! How much this kid earns to
afford the pass? Anyways, that is none of our concern like most of the Delhi
things should not be. One fact is inescapable: the well-meant boy is well
prepared for the day. The way he has tied the muffler, the manner in which his
cheap jacket is buttoned up to the collar, the way trousers tightly fit his
thin legs and the way the shoes purchased from the road-side hawker stand
decently cleaned, all these portend a good, successful business plan.
One problem with the new DTC bus is that its doors
open too invitingly with a hiss, as if it is specially welcoming you for a
joy-ride. Carried by the swift winds of one such invitation, an adivasi family raids the semi-occupied
bus. The conductor baulks, 'Not without tickets you thieves!' 'Hutt you miser,
we have money!' the dark old lady draped in a big raggish blanket shouts. Only God
knows how many of them are in the group! It is a defiant pariah unit cocking a
snook at the organized hordes of Delhi. One monkey-like infant immediately
grabs the handrails overhead and tries gymnastics. One of its itching fingers
busts the balloon tied at the upper end of the toy pole. Both its owner and the
conductor shriek painfully.
Many unclean,
bright-eyed kids clad almost in rags carry their unsuspecting selves to the
empty seats and dump the gypsy spirit for a while. Their neighbours almost
vomit in disgust. They feel their dignity has been severely violated. A slim
lady carries a toddler on her shoulder, an infant on her hip and most probably
one more life inside her as the glossy black bulge of her abdomen shines from
the short kurti she is wearing above
the gracious folds of a grimy long skirt.
It just
becomes a thoroughfare. The conductor fights for tickets. They stand their
positions, gibberishly, savagely. And where are they going? The entire national
capital region is their destination. No particular destination means
destinations everywhere. It is just a matter of holding onto the ride till the
fight with the conductor acquires serious colours. And the moment it does, they
just dump themselves with the same teasing indecency like they had raided the
bus and vanish from the scene.
Well, we
missed a parting shot. As they get down and try to scrape through the jostling
crowd, they block the path of a brand new Mercedes for a long moment. Delhi,
salutes! You bear witness to the two paradoxical movie-makings by the camera
lenses in your eyes!
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