Rajasthan is the land of desert, valiant Rajputs,
marvellous architecture and millions eking out survival from the meagre
offerings by nature. The nature itself seems to survive on its famished last
crumbs. However, this reticent, unbuckling flora and fauna has its own
pertinent, sandy charm.
The Aravali range running north-eastwards from the
desert state’s south-central point appears forlorn, denuded, weathered, parched
low mountain. After all, it is one of the oldest mountain ranges in India. Its
eastern slopes, gradually merging in the Vindhyan highlands, provide a little sip
of vegetative solace to the desert state, for here the sands do not shine in
their typical hot fury.
The real charm (for the tourist) and horror (for the
locals) of the desert sand starts gradually from the western side of the
Aravalis. The Aravalis thus stand like a bulwark against the creeping sands
from the west. Sadly, as the blatant onslaught of the unchecked human lust
plunders the Aravalis of even its famished, stunted mix of subtropical dry
deciduous and thorny forests, sparse grasses and shrubs, the low fence is
slowly-slowly giving away.
Before the cruel ribbed skeletons of the sand dunes
confirm the full hatred of the rain Gods for this deprived land, we come across
the western slopes of the mountains covering western Udaipur, eastern Sirohi
and eastern Pali. Here we get the stunted forests. Still to the western side,
the Luni river fed by its rainy tributaries like Bandi, Sukri, Khari and other
lesser streams flashes down in its milder fury during the monsoons, provided
the Arabian sea branch of the rain-bearing clouds does not cross over parallel
to the low mountains.
When the winds arrive from the north-west and the
Aravali puts up some semblance of resistance, the rains reach to the level of 50-75
cm. This is the maximum rainfall and that too when all the climatic factors are
beneficent. During that short period of time, the reddish-brown soil, due to
its little water-bearing capacity, just abundantly lets the streams on its barren
chest in gay abundance. We then have the streams to feed the Luni, which like a
life-line amidst the dead soil struggles ahead like a valiant Rajput princess
leading her small army against the marauders. The desert river then loses the
last vistas of its gurgling presence in the Rann of Kutch.
Starting from the western slopes of the Aravalis, its
reddish-brown desert soil slowly turns to dead desert soils. From the base of
the old rocky hills, a narrow strip of dwarfish, stunted, wide-spaced growth of
trees gives way—almost abruptly—to cacti and stunted acacia. Along the still
surviving stream beds, we can spot a bit of semi-desert vegetation of thorny
bushes, hardy ferns, acacia, salvadora or peelu trees.
Here lies the district Pali of Rajasthan. During
beneficent monsoons—of course a rarity—tiny streams gurgle down the small
wooded strip along the western-most slopes of the Aravalis. These little sandy
valleys once in a while acquire a rainy river character. However, it is always
doubtful whether sufficient rainfall will occur to give enough hydel energy to
enable the water from the source to reach the point of merger with river Luni.
Our story starts from a tiny tribal hamlet in the
little valley of a rainy stream surrounded by low, weathered crystalline ridges
of the Aravali. It was a settlement of the saperas,
the snake charmers. There were times when their ancestors provided an almost
exclusive form of entertainment to the masses at public squares and to the princes
and princesses, Maharajas and later their visiting English guests.
During those happy free times, the Aravalis too
boasted of more greenery. However, now the first half of the first decade of
the swanky new century gone, times had significantly changed both for the
cradle of nature and its child, the human being. Mining for copper, lead, zinc,
tungsten, mica, asbestos and unchecked grazing onslaughts by the famished
cattle, sheep, goats and buffalos of the sahukars,
the mini-landlords, had turned the mountain look far more dreary and desultory
than it was just a couple of decades back.
The peasantry on the desert plains struggled with
nature to get a sparse field cover of jowar,
bajra, maize, barley and cotton. The
camels lost the undisputed sobriquet of ‘desert-ship’ as roads came up linking
the major cities. However, in the still more famished countryside, they still
ruled supreme as the man’s most convenient friend in the hostile sands.
Bhanwar Singh sapera
was forlornly returning home after a couple of month’s absence from his tiny
tribal hamlet in the Desuri tehsil of
district Pali in south-central Rajasthan. Sukri river—a tributary of
Luni—starting from its hungry dry mouth in the western slopes of the Aravali
range, lay moaning and pining with its dry bed because it was mid-June. The
heat was at its peak and dry desert winds sighed from the western side.
With his meagre savings after entertaining foreign
tourists in Jaipur, he thought it safe to save some money by avoiding the
eventuality of buying a travel ticket. Since railways provide more possibility
of a ticketless journey, using his now customary expertise he reached Ajmer by
a train. However, here he was robbed of twenty rupees by the ticket checker. In
disgust he decided to make up for the loss by spending another day in the city
of pilgrimage. From here onwards, cramped in the third class general
compartment of a train (with his gourd pipe and snake basket) with pounding
heart, he reached Marwar junction.
Heera, the black snake, hadn’t been defanged. He had
caught it in Ajmer as it had sneaked into a house and they had called him for
the job. After capturing the intruding reptile, the snake charmer had immediately
christened him such. Heera was still fanged because its new owner had the more
urgent task of catching the train instead of setting down to the task of
breaking snake fangs.
He thanked God for allowing him this part of the
journey without any untoward incidence such as a snake bite or the appearance
of the ticket checker.
In a very cool and calculated manner, he deliberated
over the pros and cons of travelling in the same train up to Rani station,
nearest to his settlement. However, discarding the idea of a free ride for too
long in the same train, considering it greed that would definitely fetch him
trouble, he lingered on without moving in the direction of his hutment. So for
two more days, his snakes, including the now defanged Heera, swayed in Marwar
to the mysterious vibrations of his blowing pipe, the been, the famed spell-binding, almost magical wand to control the
snakes.
On the third day, just as a crowded train was about to
leave, he sneaked into the overcrowded bogey all along with his provisions, a
not so marvellous feat as the stickiest of bums gave him way for the fear of
what he carried.
Even his snakes must have heaved a sigh of relief as
the thick soles of his leather papooses hit the coal hot platform gravel at
Rani. Before reaching Rani, as the train passed over the dry Sukri river, he
had paid his homage to the river by tossing a 50 paisa coin into the sand. From
here the journey on the road was less perilous, as moving eastwards it cut
through the Aravalis on its onwards march. Pleading in a more pitiable tone,
graver even than a beggar, he hitched ride on camel carts; then on a truck. He
got down where the road passed over the dry river bed and proceeded on foot up
the parched stream bed.
From here onwards, the dusty dry river bed, bound by
the scantiest of reddish-brown low banks, went south-eastwards to take its
faintest of arid valley into the Aravalis. Getting down he smeared his
perspiring brow with the dry sand. It gave him a tremendous feel and smell of
home. Heat and drought were at its peak. Around him on the tiny rocky mounds
even the cacti seemed gasping for breath and moisture. Low thorny bushes
scattered over the denuded hills appeared welcoming. Some thoughts were nagging
him.
There in a pit on the river bed, some water must have
stayed till late summer. But now in its place there was a little patch of salt
marsh and in it a fearsome black cobra pair was lost in copulation; gyrating to
the surrendering instinct. They coiled around and rose high in the air in their
urgency to beat each other’s fanged passion. At the pinnacle of their ecstasy, they
rose so tautly high that from a distance they appeared standing on their tails.
Their usual slithery, fanged ferocity was buried under the veneer of gay
abundance. His snake charmer’s instincts instantly egged him to catch them; but
something held him back. And here cradled in the dusty lap of undulating
hillocks adorned with summer-parched, pale, widely spaced, coarse carpet of
grasses, shiny thorny acacia and euphorbias, he lay down under a desultory
kokko tree by the riverbed and watched the mating snakes.
Balancing the wood on his right shoulder bearing the
biscuit-coloured raggish, patched sacks containing the snake wicker baskets he
moved ahead. In his left hand he held the chief weapon of a sapera, the been, with the pride and majesty of a soldier holding his sword.
The first stars were twinkling in the evening sky over the cooling earth when
he left the path by the river, took a side turn and ascended the tiny footpath
up a smothered ridge to reach his village in its lee, protected from the hot
sighs of the real desert to the west.
To this side of the slope adjoining a dry stream bed
and almost reaching its margins, a few reddish-brown, semi-arid plots of land
had been prepared but these were seedless waiting for the rains. In fact,
everything animate and inanimate seemed chanting ‘rain...rain’. Iron oxides
present in the weathered old crystalline rocks of the Aravalis gave its
reddish, sandy, loamy character to pass off as the natural colour of the place in
place of the usual green we associate with the countryside. However, the more
everything yearned for rain, the lesser was their capacity to hold water.
Here in this lowland, the soil wasn’t totally barren
and yielded coarse grains when it rained.
His family, spread out in the open enclosure
surrounded by mud walls around the hutment, met him without any emotion, as if
his safe return was almost granted and he had just returned in the evening
after setting out in the morning for routine work.
****
The wrinkled brow of his father seemed more worn-out
as if some big worry had been pasted on the family patriarch’s broad slanting
forehead vanishing under the thick folds of a heavy turban (it is really big
and cumbersome in this part of the world to protect against the sun).
It seemed the old man was simply waiting for a fresh
ear to vent out his woes.
‘People from the forest department have made our lives
hell since you left. We have been lucky to stay here for I fell at their feet on
behalf of the whole clan. But we hear that people in Bali tehsil have been thrown out of their lands. Who cares for the
tribals like us? For hundreds of years, we have been living in peace with
nature with our starved forests for many generations. Now they say that the
land belongs to the mine-owning sahukars
and the government!’ he lamented in a piteously drooling tone.
For decades, the fragile eco-system of the Aravalis
had been plundered unsustainably, and when the first symptoms of the blatant
rape of nature arrived, an overzealous government, silkily following the
new-age mantra of the new century, in cahoots with numerous environmental
groups, went on to impose many face-lift measures. So under their overarching
drive, the tribals were found to be the encroachers who plundered nature. In
its spree of zealously declaring areas after areas as protected zones,
sanctuaries and national parks, the government dilly dallied with the issues of
tribal land rights, while the systematic plunder of the already famished
Aravalis by the forest mafia (involving rangers, industrialists, poachers and
politicians) continued as before, for they knew how to dodge the law because it
was a puppet in their hands.
Sometimes the tribal department officials arrived on
the scene. With thumping hearts, the poor inhabitants of this still poorer
forest awaited with bated breaths that they might get some semblance of
legitimacy in the register of land records. Nonetheless, the forest acts
are/were too harsh for the tribals. The mystifying ecological provisions, like
a hard task-master, suspiciously look at the areas where these poor people have
been living since the time immemorial.
Before the last assembly elections, the election
manifestoes of almost all the political parties had cackled:
‘Regularisation of all land records; inalienable forest
rights; inheritable rights over the traditionally occupied lands; merciful
issuing of lease deeds, etc., etc.’
However, once the new seat of power had been
established, all the flimsy ink in the declarations vanished in thin air only
to be again raked up at the time of the next elections in future.
****
Roop Singh, his elder brother, had not returned home
for the last five days.
With six-seven fellow tribals, he was deeper into the
Aravalis, seeking fiercest most snakes in those rocky ridges and semi-arid
slopes covered with tropical dry thorny bushes, wide-spaced stunted trees of mahua, khair and occasional sheesham.
Here surviving on occasional game of hare, birds, jackals—while their goat and
sheep herd nibbled at the faded little grass and shrubs to give them some
milk—they looked for jahar mora, a black shiny button that
allegedly soaked venom when put at the snake bite. It was, they claimed, obtained
from a big, dangerous mountain frog. Apart from this, they wandered far and
wide into this tropical thorn forest consisting of ber bushes, babool and khardhai for herbs and medicinal plants
with miraculous healing properties which they later tried to sell to an almost
disbelieving crowd during their snake circus in the streets of the more
civilized world.
His father said, ‘Poor Roopa left happily saying that
this time he will catch some animals to look like a mini-circus and then
showcase these at Connaught Place in Delhi, where angrez log just shower hundred rupee notes like these are mere one
rupee coins. The poor boy doesn’t know that the person who told him such Delhi
stories has returned like a beggar this time. Poor Ratna...!’
‘What happened to him?’ Bhanwar Singh got worried.
‘He came back lamenting that the big, educated people
in Delhi now think that we torture animals. He was beaten up by the police. His
snakes, the monkey pair and the pet bear were snatched away like he had stolen
these from somebody. It’s a great feat that despite robbed of all his property,
he managed to reach here!’
Here as well, like most of the laws that flaunt their
muscles only against the weak and the dispossessed, the Wildlife Protection
Act, 1970 banning cruelty to animals got suddenly rejuvenated thanks to a
fretting, fuming animal activist from Delhi. So the circus industry right from
the street-side snake charmers to the big organised circuses with their
entertaining trails of animals and artists got almost a fatal blow.
Meanwhile, the real culprits, who plundered Mother
Nature at the institutional level, cutting thousands of acres of land on a
daily basis, polluting the skies with millions of tons of toxic fumes,
smothering life out of the seas with nefarious pollutants, all these and more
went with their business as usual with a clean hand and legal documentation.
****
In front of their tiny hutment, a dusty square was
marked by a stunted pair of neem and peepal. The curbing around this pair
contained little alcoves where they worshipped the snake Gods and their
ancestors. Then there were chambers to put snakes in them. Water was the
costliest item for oblations here. Faith can stretch out the last ounce of
materialism, so whatever might have been the condition of the drought, these
people still offered water and crumbs to the deities, expecting them to make
their life better. On these morsels survived ants; on water the neem-peepal
pair; and on the living offerings of frogs, lizards and insects the snakes
thrived.
‘Kala has stopped dancing to the been tunes,’ Bhanwar said after performing his thanksgiving homage
at the holy place.
The morning was changing into noon. The sun was baking
hot. His old father put his big bundle of intricately twisted head-cloth on his
head and picked up his old, blackened big gourd pipe made of dried vessel of
gourd. Its neck was ornately carved and painted. The central bulge or the belly
as they called it had little round mirror pieces and coins sticking with gum
and tar. From this central bulge emerged two pipes, one longer than the other.
The wooden shorter one had modulating air holes and the metallic longer one took
those deep bass rumblings and mysterious rhythms to the protruded snake hood.
Drawing his tattered dhoti to hide his private parts
while sitting on his haunches, the old man said, ‘Those educated fools say that
a snake doesn’t dance to the been’s
tunes! I hope Kala hasn’t paid too much heed to their nonsense in the city.’
He grunted and put the lid off the round wicker
basket. It was a huge snake. Its coils almost filled up the entire basket.
However, it didn’t show any interest in the sudden burst of light. It kept
lying as before. Its closed hood was hidden somewhere among the coils; only the
tail showed above. With caution the old man tickled the tail.
‘You were out for a long period of time, I hope the nag hasn’t regained its fangs in the
meantime! And you are lazy enough not to be bothered about such issues,’ he turned
to his son with a stern glare.
Kala didn’t respond. Taking up the snake’s lethargy as
a challenge to his art, the mastery of the snake charmer started in full flow
and wisdom, its vibrations after hovering over the basket wispily serpented
across the coils. It needs a tremendous throw by the blower’s throat to play
this instrument. The cheeks and the throat get puffed up almost to their last
restraint. The eyes pop out wide, almost on the verge of coming out of their
sockets. The throat muscles twist in such a manner that the veins protrude as
if the neck has been put in a strangulating noose. The lips have to be pressed
so hard against the pipe that they bear permanent marks of puffy craftsmanship.
The old man drew out every ounce of his art and craft
to get the snake respond to his tunes. His face was perspiring but he won’t
give up. It seemed the old man would faint any moment. Then the cobra rose in
its full majesty.
From the corner of his bulging eyes, he saw Bhanwar
getting up and touching the feet of the eldest surviving clan member—a sort of
patriarch to the snake charming tribals of the area. The old man had witnessed
the spectacle. However, more than the feeling of pleasure over this win of the sapera’s dexterity over the snake’s
venomous timidity, the clan chief expected the player to come and greet him
respectfully. But the player’s success had come at too big a price. So he would
rather incur the chieftain’s wrath than lose his pleasure.
Its hood drawn taut, the snake hissed menacingly at
the flute end. The deeply rumbling tones seemed to hypnotise it and made it
harmlessly sway its hood. The reptile seemed lost, dazed and spellbound as its
intoxicated hood gyrated slowly, ponderously in the air, following the gentle
sway of the instrument in front of it.
Drawing big sips of success, the old player suddenly clutched
at his side in pain. Holding at his stomach with one hand below the ribs, he
greeted the old clan leader.
The still elder sapera
chided him:
‘It’s not the time to waste your energy like that in a
show of arrogance with that snake. Where’ll you play with a snake if the lands
are snatched away from us? Our complacency will find us bundled out from our
lands, which they say doesn’t belong to us because we don’t possess the chit of
paper proving our rights to it. Not only that, they are now forcing us to
abandon our traditional occupation. Talks are circulating that in the cities,
they now beat the saperas, take away
the snakes and set them free in the forest. Damn with the forest and animal
laws of theirs! Both our occupation and settlements have become illegal now.
Water is just about to cross over the heads. Either we take action or perish.
We have decided to sit on a dharna in
front of the assembly building in Jaipur, demanding our rights. If they don’t
pay heed, we’ll obey their laws. We’ll set our snakes free; but not in the
jungles—we will leave the poor reptiles in the very houses of its new friends.
We’ll throw them into the assembly building and perish of hunger!’
Writing with pain and clutching the side of his
stomach, Bhanwar’s father reasoned, ‘But the police will beat us and put us in
jail!’
‘The cowardice of this sort will ring the dooms bell
of the adivasi samaj! Be ready with
all your snakes, you will get to know the day of the protest march in the
meantime!’ the clan leader left the place in a hurry to spread his message
across the others hutments in the area.
****
Roop Singh hadn’t returned, nor was there any
information about the group that had gone hunting deep in the Aravalis. With
the more energetic enforcement of the forest laws, such time-worn and old
forays were increasingly coming into the fold of illegal activities now.
Systematic plunder by the larger players had of course enforced the legislature
to formulate protective legislations, but those bigger players knew it very
well how to dodge the executive and the judiciary.
As cosmetic measures to prevent the laws from dying,
minor facelift measures like arresting the tribals in violations of the forest
laws kept on occurring now and then. Thus, even without his family having any
inkling to it, poor Roop Sigh and his friends had been arrested. Crime? They
had killed a chinkara antelope. But
what about the bigger killers who slaughter entire forests, thus killing not
only the antelopes but every species dwelling in the forest? They are not the
offenders. They are the lawful parts of the system that decides what is wrong
and what is right.
His father was definitely ill. After that excruciating
bout of pain that started in his right flank and with tremendous pungency
spread to his whole body, he was now crouching almost decimated. Poking his
fingers into his ribs, the unregistered medical practitioner in the nearest
settlement of the civilised people had declared kidney stone, a big one as if
he could see it. Now this stone had become a drag on the old man whose soul
once flowed freely, but now the freely sailing ship of yore had been anchored
to the stony thing in his physical self.
Rolling the hard-wood frame of a kanjira type frame-drum in his hands, the old man said with a sigh,
‘I don’t know what has taken Roopa so long over there. I’ve polished the frame.
All it needs is a lizard’s skin!’
Hunting wild monitor lizards was one of the many other
purposes of the visit.
The old man was wearing a home-spun, open-fronted vest
of coarse cotton. His dark hairy arms and muscular chest vouchsafed a tough
life lived in those trying circumstances. Letting the frame roll in the
direction of one of his grandchildren, he got up from the cot and walked with
bent back to the hut entrance. He emerged with an old frame-drum with blackened
dark-brown skin drawn for some folklore tunes. Its rhythm and deep bass sound
had so many times provided company to his dexterous been music while showcasing his snakes.
Beating his fingers on it he started his tale of
sorrows, ‘Though vaidya promises to
draw the stone through his potions and concoctions, but I doubt his ability.
For a month I’m living on practically nothing but his liquids. With the passage
of each day the pain is increasing. If you have saved something from the trip
then we can visit a doctor in the town.’
‘Why waste their money on your never-dying wish to
live forever old man!’ his wife cackled.
‘Shut up you venomous old snake!’ the old man threw
the drum at her.
Drawing every single penny from the pockets of all the
family members and after borrowing something from the neighbours, they mustered
up their cash resources to the tune of 300 rupees. Bhanwar Singh put on his
unwashed black long shirt and a similar coloured loin cloth tied in a knot
around his waist and tucked the money in the safety of its folds. They set out
for the dusty township in the lap of Aravalis.
The X-ray, some medicines and the travelling expanses
found them plundered to their last penny. All this had happened while the
treatment hadn’t even started. The doctor said he needed an operation and its
cost was beyond even the wildest of their dreams. Looking at their famished
position, the doctor suggested they could knock at the doors of the civil
hospital at Pali. But they will have to buy medicines even there.
Dejected they returned home. Tormented by the pain,
the old man ogled at the X-ray film and his bleary eyes stared deep at the
place purported to be the stone. Then he poked his finger into his side to
arrive at the similar point in his body.
After adjusting his fingers here and there for a
while, he sighed with satisfaction, ‘The devil lies here. It’s almost for
nothing they want to rob us of plenty of money!’
The emerging bout of pain was making him desperate,
leaving him prone to any type of helpless, illogical step.
‘I can cut out the devil myself! Then I’ll put boiled
oil with nettles and some other grasses that they say will heal a wound even
extending along a completely torn apart body!’
Writhing in pain, he went out and borrowed somebody’s
shaving razor in the hamlet. However, the vision of upcoming pain and blood
left him cold-footed and he threw away the razor swearing at himself for
showing this excitement.
The local herbsman suggested another concoction—the
meat of a black buck boiled with some stones, roots and herbs.
‘The killing of a black buck will be like committing a
robbery!’ the old man sighed resignedly.
Under the Wildlife Protection Act, it had been
declared a protected species.
With tears in his eyes, Bhanwar Singh vowed to hunt a
black buck. However, the old man showing surprising calm held him back:
‘Son, it’s better to die than to see the days when you
are condemned a criminal for following the occupation of your forefathers; when
the very means to save your life and earn your livelihood become the occupation
of a thief in the eyes of the government. It’s then better to die of a stone
instead of being humiliated and made to die thousand deaths in the form of
restricting our movement through our lands like one tries to restrict the
passage of free air through the skies. What hope lies when our small time
killings of animals and their capture becomes the greatest sin on earth? All this
while, they kill far bigger, they kill rivers, forests and this entire earth.
Our means to livelihood are crimes and their massacres are mere development.
But I can assure you son that these, I mean our innocent takeaways from Mother
Nature, are no sins, for if these had been so, the collective sins of our
forefathers would’ve sent all of us to hell. It’s no sin to survive like taking
honey sips as the bees do without eating the flower itself. The sinners are
these outsiders, the big people, who come and break the whole plant; not just
the flower...and we become the culprits!’
Exhausted with pain, the old man dozed off.
It was the day of their protest demonstration in front
of the state assembly house in Jaipur. The tribals in big numbers had marched
to raise a voice for their rights. However, Bhanwar Singh could not join them
on account of his father’s ill health. Yet he had donated his snakes for the
cause.
‘In case they don’t listen to you, forcing you to let
your snakes into the big house, my Kalu will take full revenge from our side!’
he said with moisture in his eyes.
With forlorn steps he ascended the ridge. Reaching its
crest dotted with thorny bushes, he put his hand over his eyes to look for any
sign of his brother whom he hadn’t seen for many weeks. Mercilessly the hot
wind blowing from the thar desert hit
his back with a wild dusty fury.